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  1. #1
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    8J TTRS - Xona Hybrid WMI results

    In my ongoing battle to combat the $#@! DA that I live with on a daily basis, I decided to suplement my Xona hybrid with WMI...

    The baseline was run at ~26lbs and timing set to 93 on the UM tune while the WMI run was set to 29lbs and 107. The comparison isn't apples to apples since the baseline was done with ~96 octane in the tank while the WMI dyno was ~102 octane, but the torque curve tells the story. The WMI setup is a relatively simple AEM stage 2 kit on the smallest nozzle and injecting washer fluid. It is set to start spraying at 7lbs and builds up to 100% at 27lbs.


    I was expecting to see improvement, but not to this extent. I couldn't be happier with the results.


    Other items worth noting: My elevation is ~5,280ft and a Stg 2 Rs3 on E85 made roughly 500whp on the same dyno last weekend.


    Big thanks to #BWPerformance for another exceptional experience. There is a video up on their Instagram that I am not smart enough to link to here.

    Before
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    After
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  2. #2
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    Dude that's phenomenal! 100 hp gain!? I'm installing my kit tomorrow....praying I get those kind of gains. Did you happen to log your timing retard?

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    I'd have estimate it's more like 60whp... I ran the car on the same tank last weekend and it went 122 mph which translates to ~500whp. The 430whp Dyno was run with far less octane as a base. To simplify, these dynos compare ~95 octane to 102 octane + wmi.

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    What is aem's smallest nozzle? I did some logging last night for the first time and was shocked to see the car still pulling up to 5 degrees of timing. This is with the tune set at 93 and 28 pounds of boost. Tested everything and kit is functioning properly. Did a little digging and it turns out I should be injecting about 750 ml/min and I'm running a 375 ml nozzle (biggest in the kit)...so I'm hoping that's the issue, but was still surprised the meth mix didn't do more.
    Iat's did drop from 127 to 93 though which was cool to see.

  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Doc Oc Click here to enlarge
    What is aem's smallest nozzle? I did some logging last night for the first time and was shocked to see the car still pulling up to 5 degrees of timing. This is with the tune set at 93 and 28 pounds of boost. Tested everything and kit is functioning properly. Did a little digging and it turns out I should be injecting about 750 ml/min and I'm running a 375 ml nozzle (biggest in the kit)...so I'm hoping that's the issue, but was still surprised the meth mix didn't do more.
    Iat's did drop from 127 to 93 though which was cool to see.
    AEM starts at a 250cc nozzle, but I am actually moving up to the 500cc after a trip to the strip and seeing it wasn't enough to cool the charge after sitting in the staging lanes. I'm shocked with how much these cars heat soak when sitting still. I had IAT's north of 70*c while at the starting line and they were only getting down to the 40*c range when the meth came in... The car was fine on the dyno with the fans running, but I was seeing LOTS of timing pull at the same settings at the strip. I managed to get my 60' down into the 1.6 range on the summer tires and with an aggressive launch, but my traps were down nearly 6mph due to the timing pull so I was still in the 11.8 range. Still hoping for the 10 @ 7,000' DA out of the car... I should have the car back tomorrow with the larger nozzle in it so I will run some more logs and see how it does.

    What turbo are you running those settings on? Seems like a LOT of timing pull. What is your water/meth mix?

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    Interesting. I am running an efr 7163 with a .80. I was shocked that it basically pulled the same amount of timing as no meth. The 90 deg weather isn't helping but still.

    Running boost juice which is 51/49 water. I ordered a second nozzle holder and t fitting and am going to run a 625 nozzle near the TB and a 175 nozzle just after the ic like yours. Hoping that will do the trick. According to this chart we should both be spraying a lot more.

    https://www.snowperformance.net/category-s/191.htm

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    Learned two things about my car while its in the shop:

    1. I was running the 500cc nozzle so we're stepping up to 1,000cc to see how the car responds to that.

    2. I snapped the dogbone arm (trans to subframe mount) at the track. Sticky tires + 4-puck clutch + launch control at 5,700 RPMs was good for one 1.6 second 60', but it will help you find the weak links in a hurry! Waiting on a billet piece and upgraded bushing before the car will be back on the road. Hopefully back on the road in a few more days.

  8. #8
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    Wow. no damage anywhere else? Curious to see what results you get from the bigger nozzle. I'd also be curious to see what your car is doing without race gas for comparison's sake. I just got home from running some logs and even after I added the second nozzle (running 750 ml/m total now) it's still pulling up to 3 deg. set at 94 octane. 82 deg outside. Intake air temps drop considerably but I'm just not getting the knock reduction expected. Got a 625 cc nozzle coming Monday and am going to run it along with a 375. If it's still pulling timing then I'll be shocked.

  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Doc Oc Click here to enlarge
    Wow. no damage anywhere else? Curious to see what results you get from the bigger nozzle. I'd also be curious to see what your car is doing without race gas for comparison's sake. I just got home from running some logs and even after I added the second nozzle (running 750 ml/m total now) it's still pulling up to 3 deg. set at 94 octane. 82 deg outside. Intake air temps drop considerably but I'm just not getting the knock reduction expected. Got a 625 cc nozzle coming Monday and am going to run it along with a 375. If it's still pulling timing then I'll be shocked.
    Where are the nozzles located? My understanding is that the closer it is to the combustion chamber the more it will benefit on the octane side and nozzles further away from the combustion chamber are for IAT control.

    Nothing else broke with the bogbone arm. It snapped clean in two. I did have the bushing upgraded while I was in there and it has made a world of difference on the drivability of the 4-puck. There is a bit more vibration in the cabin, but the clutch engages 10x more precisely and predictably now.

    Click here to enlarge

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    I've got one nozzle tapped into the elbow of the forge dv...approx 6" in front of the TB, and the other is plumbed in the upper part of the lower ic pipe, just below the silicone coupler to the elbow. They're about 8" apart.

    What dogbone bushing did you go with? I've been pretty happy with the red hpa puck but it's definitely noisy. I've also got a four puck and while it's better with the upgraded motor/tranny/dogbone mounts, it's still a nightmare.

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Doc Oc Click here to enlarge
    What dogbone bushing did you go with? I've been pretty happy with the red hpa puck but it's definitely noisy. I've also got a four puck and while it's better with the upgraded motor/tranny/dogbone mounts, it's still a nightmare.
    I'm also on the red... I have roughly 1,200 miles on the clutch and found that its engagement started mellowing out after a ~700 miles and a few launches. The car isn't my DD so its a non-issue for me, but I could live with it on a daily basis if I weren't driving clients and coworkers around. I'm assuming you're on the stock DMF?

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    I hope soClick here to enlarge No clue really....was just told by the selling dealer that it had a new 4 puck clutch. I think that contributed to the car dropping in price a lot because it was nearly impossible to drive until the clutch broke in. Been driving stick for 32 years and I must've stalled it 10 times on the test drive! It got consistently better as it broke in, but after driving my nephew's Camaro last weekend (oe clutch) I realized just how big of a pita this thing isClick here to enlarge

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