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  1. #1
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    6266 w/ schrick high lift cams

    Hello everyone,

    I am currently rebuilding my N54 and I am looking to get a set of Schrick high lift camshafts. I installed custom made pistons from CP to accommodate the increased valve lift and just ordered a set of Supertech valve springs and retainers to prevent valve float as I also want to see if there are any gains to be had if we shift the power curve to the right and raise the rev limiter.

    Here is my current mod list:
    -JB4 + MHD bef
    -DOC RACE 6266 kit
    -CP pistons (stock CR) + Carrillo rods, ARP head studs
    -VTT spline lock crank hub
    -Prometh direct port WMI injection
    -VRSF 7" FMIC (looking to get a 7.5")
    -Mfactory twin disc clutch

    I tried looking for some results or info on the Schrick high lift cams and did not find anything relevant. Maybe somebody here can shime in.

    This is my first performance engine build and I'd like to get as much knowledge as possible. I usually work on diesel engines in mining application and have rebuilt a few.

    Any thoughts or info is appreciated! Click here to enlarge

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    I don't see which intake mani you're running which is the most important part (aside from head work)to see gains from highlift cams

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    I am still running the stock intake manifold for now, I am still not decided which manifold I will buy. Also trying to stay within budget and I am already 13K CAD into my engine build.

    I figured I'd get cams first because I'm already in there.

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    Do not worry about the intake manifold brother. Not sure where Eric is getting this info. We have done EXTENSIVE testing with shrick high lifts. Prob best bang for your buck N54 upgrade after turbos. Terry burgers car made an easy 760+WHP with the help of Schricks on the stock intake manifold. While a manifold may help, N54 intake manifold comes in at the worst bang for your buck upgrade on the N54. Steer well clear of the cast front facing manifold being sold as an “upgrade” we have seen them lose power on more than one vehicle. You can upgrade to high lift cams with confidence in picking up quite a bit of power throughout the RPM range. Keep in mind you will need to upgrade your valve springs though. We offer complete supertech spring kits, drop us an email with any questions!
    Last edited by Tony@VargasTurboTech; 02-11-2019 at 10:06 AM.

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    Without making the N54 breathe better cams wont help $#@!. Period.

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    Tony,

    As stated in the first post, I already picked up a Supertech spring kit, but thank you for the offer. Is there any before/after results on yours or Terry's car? I couldn't find anything online.

    Also, do you know of any tuner that has worked with these cams before?

  7. #7
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    Eric, I checked your build thread, very solid work, I am impressed.

    Although I agree that better flow will be helpful, I am convinced there are still gains to be had with those cams, and I want to see what can be done with them on stock head + manifold. The increased lift and stiffer valve springs should allow for higher revs, which, with the right tune, might get me the results I am looking for.

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    I think Eric said intake manifold because there was no mention of fuel upgrades ... which are an absolute need. Meth ain't going to do $#@! at power. Need either PI or Double Barrel.
    And the BMS manifold is probably the best bang/buck.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by iminhell1 Click here to enlarge
    I think Eric said intake manifold because there was no mention of fuel upgrades ... which are an absolute need. Meth ain't going to do $#@! at power. Need either PI or Double Barrel.
    And the BMS manifold is probably the best bang/buck.
    Meth is not fuel and doesn’t make power? Huh?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by iminhell1 Click here to enlarge
    I think Eric said intake manifold because there was no mention of fuel upgrades ... which are an absolute need. Meth ain't going to do $#@! at power. Need either PI or Double Barrel.
    And the BMS manifold is probably the best bang/buck.
    well that's nonsense. you can make as much power on meth as e85 if you choose to.
    It has the best charge cooling.
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.74@129 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, custom bucketless stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ssphil Click here to enlarge
    Tony,

    As stated in the first post, I already picked up a Supertech spring kit, but thank you for the offer. Is there any before/after results on yours or Terry's car? I couldn't find anything online.

    Also, do you know of any tuner that has worked with these cams before?
    We posted results on this forum, other forums, facebook, etc. Simply searching for posts by Terry burger or VTT would find them...

    Terrys Dyno numbers again. Stock head except for springs, of course cams, stock intake manifold, GC's forged pistons, Rods.

    Attachment 58385

    Here is our shop car overlaid with Terrys with similar upgrades, but with a fully ported head, FF intake manifold, different fueling, etc. You can see the curve is the same, just more power everywhere with the ported head.

    Ported head makes a huge difference
    Attachment 58386

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ssphil Click here to enlarge
    Eric, I checked your build thread, very solid work, I am impressed.

    Although I agree that better flow will be helpful, I am convinced there are still gains to be had with those cams, and I want to see what can be done with them on stock head + manifold. The increased lift and stiffer valve springs should allow for higher revs, which, with the right tune, might get me the results I am looking for.
    Anyone trying to convince you that intake manifold is a good bang for the buck upgrade is not being truthful. They are expensive, and with all the but most extreme builds are not going to yield much net gains. But an intake manifold may be the best "bling for your buck" upgrade.

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    Eric, you don't know what you're talking about, your statement if false. A cam with more duration will allow the valves to stay open longer, therefore you can have more air ingested into the cylinder and you can also allow the exhaust valve to open sooner and/or close later in order to reduce pumping loss.

    A head that flows better on both the intake and especially on the exhaust port will help a turbocharge engine become more efficient, but cams with more lift/duration alone do help.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mikeseli Click here to enlarge
    Eric, you don't know what you're talking about, your statement if false. A cam with more duration will allow the valves to stay open longer, therefore you can have more air ingested into the cylinder and you can also allow the exhaust valve to open sooner and/or close later in order to reduce pumping loss.

    A head that flows better on both the intake and especially on the exhaust port will help a turbocharge engine become more efficient, but cams with more lift/duration alone do help.
    Exactly, I think he has been hanging out with the Motiv guys too long or something. Throw cams on an otherwise stock N54, and you see noticeable gains, you are improving the VE or the motor drastically. This will always help, will it help more with other mods to also improve the VE of the motor? Of course, but they will help on their own as well...

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  16. #16
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    The OE Intake Manifold really never struck me as anything restrictive, combine that with its more ideal thermal characteristics/low weight/and no additional cost I'd say it would be far down on the purchase list sans for the following perks of the aftermarket offerings:
    1) PI/Meth bung provisioning.
    2) Extra vacuum port provisioning.
    3) Bling/aesthetics.
    4) More robust.
    5) Simply out of mods to buy and want something new that could add a few ponies.

    Rob

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by tisdrew2 Click here to enlarge
    Yes we made 910 ft/lbs of TQ testing GC on our built motor with cams. It also bent all 6 Oliver Rods in the process. These are STRONG expensive rods. That is the last time we left TQ unchecked on a fully built ported/cammed GC EquippedN54. It simply spools too fast, and makes too much TQ to keep anything together, you greatly benefit by limiting boost down low, and bringing it in later... Stage 3 is a much softer option on parts and holds power to redline a little better, much harder to launch though...

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    Little off-topic, but since you're there Tony, how would you go about replacing the crank hub with no flywheel installed? There is simply no room for a flywheel on my engine stand.

  19. #19
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ssphil Click here to enlarge
    Little off-topic, but since you're there Tony, how would you go about replacing the crank hub with no flywheel installed? There is simply no room for a flywheel on my engine stand.
    You don't stretch crank hub bolts on the engine stand. You install it, and Tq the bolt. Once you have it back in the car, use the proper holding tools, and put your 360 degrees on it

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tony@VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    You don't stretch crank hub bolts on the engine stand. You install it, and Tq the bolt. Once you have it back in the car, use the proper holding tools, and put your 360 degrees on it
    Imagine trying to do that on an engine stand! That thing would need to be bolted to the ground LOL
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  21. #21
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    I managed to remove the crank hub on the engine stand using a 3/4 ratchet + extension and a long pry bar to hold the other end of the crank with a few bolts. 1 person on each side and the engine stand did not move an inch.

    Also, I took a picture of the old bolt next to a brand new bolt to dissuade anybody wanting to reuse the old bolt. It stretched by a full millimeter.

    I should receive my VTT hub and the valve springs this week so I'm excited to see how this build will turn out Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

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    Alright so for future reference for anybody that needs to replace the crank hub on an engine stand, it’s pretty easy to do and the stand does not need to be bolted to the ground Click here to enlarge
    Just need a second person to hold the crankshaft with a big bar in the rear of the engine with two old flywheel bolts.
    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

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    The engine is finally installed. I decided to wait till later in the summer to install the cams, I'd like to be able to do a before/after comparison on dyno first as I haven't found any for these cams. I was able to replace the valve springs with the cylinder head installed on the block without any air pressure (using a tool I fabricated) and it's running good! First startup was a little stressful as this was my first gas engine rebuild but everything went smoothly. Now I just need to wait till the snow melts down so I can take it out on the street Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ssphil Click here to enlarge
    Just need a second person to hold the crankshaft with a big bar in the rear of the engine with two old flywheel bolts.
    Hell I'm impressed you did this all yourself.

    So did you get it on the dyno? How does it drive? Or probably too much snow?

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    Yeah there is still a bit of snow but I plan on taking it on the road Saturday afternoon. I'll give the engine and new clutch at least a thousand kilometers to break-in and will try to get to a dyno run sometime in April. It will probably be on a mustang dyno though, I have tried to find a Dynojet everywhere in the entire province but couldn't find one so we'll see from there. I'll try to get the rpms up to 8k to get a baseline so we can really see what's happening when we swap cams, how much of an improvement they are.

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