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  1. #1
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    Lots of Oil in my intake - need help diagnosing

    Hi,
    first post here, seems like a much more technical forum so maybe I can get to the bottom of my issue.

    My car details are in my sig, I now use it exclusively for drag races.
    At the end of last drag season, I parked the car in the garage in the winter to work on it. When I parked the car, I had a few little things that I wanted to change/improve but the car ran great, no strange symptoms, no code, all was nice.

    During the winter, I was messing with the x-drive trying to hack it, I may have start/stop the car at least hundred of times for a few seconds. Did not noticed anything wrong.

    When the spring arrived, I got ready to put the car out when I noticed a small oil drip on the garage floor. I quickly traced the leak from the rear turbo charge pipe at the collar (#2)
    Click here to enlarge

    I found the collar a little loose, I tighten it a bit but it did not explain why oil was present there. Upon deeper inspection, I found my CP with a puddle of oil. I then started to take stuff apart. My IM, CP, IC where all having quite some oil inside, not the usual N54 blow by type.

    I noticed how severe is my issue with the Forge DV, they are venting to air and when they do, they spit oil all over the place., last year there was no oil spitting. My car is NOT smoking but this oil gets pushed in the intake and for sure it is getting burned. I can see my intake valves are all coated with fresh oil. The oil also ruins my timings because oil in the air is anti-octane. Turbos are not smoking, not making any noise and they seemed to give full power.

    so to try to diagnose this issue I did the following but issue persist:

    - checked PCV system (got the RB external with plugged head), PCV seemed fine but still replaced with a new one
    - checked/clean vent tube (the one with the metered valve returning to the intake tubing)
    - check my BMS OCC for bent tube/obstruction (obviously not full)
    - compression test (dry): 166,167,169,170,167,165
    - leakdown (tested at 90spi): 2%,2%,2%,2%,3%,2%
    - changed oil from Motul 8100 Xcess to 8100 Xclean (a bit thicker oil) and measured oil drained was not overfilled
    - removed DP's, checked both turbos for shaft play: none
    - removed my rear turbo oil drain (RB high flow), no gum/junk inside, all nice. still replaced with new drain tubing (same type)
    - spark plugs are all nice, no oil or fuel smell, even color across all cylinders
    - vented my OCC to air (in case oil was getting from there)

    The only symptoms I have now (other than this oil issue) are:
    - on cold start, little rough idle for maybe 30seconds (injectors index 11 original)
    - my cylinder 4 is having consistently lower timing than other cylinders

    My turbos are RB next gen and I am extremely happy with them, they are a little over a year old and performed flawlessly. I reached to Rob and he gave me a boat load amount of help to try to narrow this issue (Click here to enlarge Rob). The last possible suspect was the turbo them self but upon the inspection for shaft play, Rob ruled out the turbo possibility. Rob and I are totally out of ideas.

    I also taped my VC to connect a gauge (to rule out crankcase pressure), upon idle I could not measure any pressure/vacuum. I have not tested with a gauge on the road.

    Is there anyone with some hints? Even if it is something far fetch...I am getting desperate with this issue.
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  2. #2
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    If I recall correctly the PCV system feeds into the rear intake, which feeds into the rear turbo, which feeds into the CP and intake manifold, which also feed the diverter valves. Could be the reason.
    Got your catch can connected the correct way around?

    There's always a chance of leaking seals in the turbos themselves. But as far as I know high boost causes more oil in the PCV system.
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.74@129 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, custom bucketless stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  3. #3
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AWSAWS Click here to enlarge
    If I recall correctly the PCV system feeds into the rear intake, which feeds into the rear turbo, which feeds into the CP and intake manifold, which also feed the diverter valves. Could be the reason.
    Got your catch can connected the correct way around?

    There's always a chance of leaking seals in the turbos themselves. But as far as I know high boost causes more oil in the PCV system.
    well to eliminate the possibility that oil is entering in the rear intake tube, I have vented the flapper valve to atmosphere. PCV is routed back to intake manifold. Catch can routed the proper way and collecting some oil during high boost.

    basically, I have nothing returning to the rear intake tube.

    I guess it does not look good for the rear turbo...
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  4. #4
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    It is always a tough case to troubleshoot when everything is perfect.

    1) No smoke.
    2) No notable oil consumption.
    3) No noises.
    4) No problems hitting targets.
    5) No shaft play and along with normal condition turbines/compressors.
    6) No problems with PCV system.
    7) Perfect engine cylinder test results.
    8) Car runs great.

    But oil in the intake tract and coming out of diverters when they vent.

    Ultimately as long as the turbos are not overspinning while trying to otherwise push enough air volume to pressurize a leaking induction system, they certainly would not be pushing oil out the compressors. It is very well known that a worn or damaged turbo in an otherwise healthy environment will only smoke like a chimney out of the exhaust, first and foremost, but not at all the case here.

    Best of luck to the OP.

    Rob

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    Well, with the process of elimination, I came to the conclusion that there is nothing else left other than the turbo(s) themselves. All known/suggested possibilities have been ruled out.


    When I bought the turbos, I was wanting peace of mind and reliable service. I clarified the past oil burning issue and I have been reassured that these were long gone and fixed. I paid for the upgraded wastegate and high flow drains because I wanted to do the install once and be done for a while, my car being an XI, it is extra pita to do the install.


    I did the original installation and everything as been done meticulously, I even primed the turbos with oil even if not totally necessary...I babysit them, did not wanted to revisit the installation. I screw up the gasket of one oil drain so I had to fix it but that's it.


    I ran one season with the turbos, from April to beginning of October and all seemed good. Stored the car in garage for winter projects. This April when I took out the car for the new season, I noticed this oil issue. At that time, I was still within the one year of warranty. I started the troubleshooting and did all the tests previously mentioned (I even did a few other odd tests not even mentioned). Only to come to the end that it has to be the turbos. I am less than thrilled about this issue.


    So what's next? I remove the turbos and then what?
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by stephtech Click here to enlarge
    All known/suggested possibilities have been ruled out.

    When I bought the turbos, I was wanting peace of mind and reliable service. I clarified the past oil burning issue and I have been reassured that these were long gone and fixed.

    So what's next? I remove the turbos and then what?
    Ruled out everything, get a new engine installed too?Click here to enlarge

    Regarding an oil burning issue, correct, it has been gone for 3 years now. Are you now seeing smoke? You have not reported that to date. In fact every turbo vital sign you have reported has shown to be perfect.

    Anyway if you are asking us about removing the turbos (that were just inspected to be perfect) and what is next... judging by the hundreds of emails you have sent over the past couple years it goes without saying that you have our email.

    Thanks,
    Rob
    Last edited by Rob@RBTurbo; 09-07-2018 at 09:37 AM.

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    My understanding is that I would not be the first one to experience a bad compressor oil seal with absolutely no shaft play. Yes they sound normal, they boost normal, no oil on exhaust side, no boost leak (pressure &amp; smoke tested whole intake path) but it still does not rule out the oil seal to me.<br>


    Well the engine has not been replaced obviously but I would be curious to know what type of defect would make the turbo leak oil on compressor side (with no crankcase pressure and oil not overfilled, new oil drain). I did not have noticeable smoking issue.

    Even if my engine valves guides/seals would be bad, it would be throwing oil on the exhaust side, not the compressor side, but maybe there is something else that I am not aware/forgetting, I am open to other suggestions. This is the reason I came on the forum.

    anyone with other ideas?
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  8. #8
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Mentioned this before but no the compressor seals just do not leak for no reason and are not a typical failure mode whatsoever.

    Turbo seals leak for the following reason:
    1) Worn bearings allow for instability in the shaft assembly where the seal loses effectiveness.
    2) Turbine side seals lose tension and become brittle due to heat cycling.
    3) Excess crankcase pressures (which also presents itself internally to the turbo via the oil drain).
    4) Poor draining or excess oil flow through turbo from worn bearings, both cause oil to back up.
    5) Large pressure variances between turbo sides (ie. High back pressure on turbine side and big air leaks on the compressor side).

    Most everyone of these leads to smoking and only the last one could be the only scenario where the compressor seal would show as an issue first and foremost, but this wouldn't be a turbo problem unless the overspin from attempting to pressurize the atmosphere causes premature failure. Even then it is a longshot and something that you are likely not seeing as an issue.

    All of the above aside after some deep thoughts and extensive searching on it we were able to locate one single case from someone earlier this year, but never heard any follow up from them. Anyway we called him earlier to see what ever become of it and he said he pulled the external PCV setup, emptied the low side OCC (said it may have been too full), cleaned it thoroughly, and while he was in there he put teflon on the Low side OCC fittings and made sure all connections were good.

    As of this conversation today he said he hasn't noticed anything unusual and has moved on with life, but unfortunately he never did isolate if it was a can too full or dirty issue or something to do with the connections. If you want to talk to him you can email us and we will provide you his N54Tech name.

    Other than this we would suggest not running your Forge Diverters to atmosphere, run them to the turbo inlets like everyone else does. If you want a BOV, then get the tried and true Tial.

    Thanks,
    Rob

  9. #9
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    @stephtech you solve this?

  10. #10
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Issue still not resolved.
    Sorry for not updating earlier. Got an oil disaster this weekend while checking my pressure. My oil line attached on the OFH assembly burst (not coming apart, real burst) under pressure and threw around 2 liters of oil everywhere in my garage (including ceiling)....what a mess. Click here to enlarge
    Now I know that silicone tube DO NOT hold well oil under pressure. Car is ok, I stopped the car within 2 seconds.

    From Rob's last post with possible issues, I retain the #4 and #5 to validate.

    For #4 (oil drainage), it gave me the idea of checking incoming oil pressure. I remember reading online a while ago (from you) recommended pressure for the turbos between 28-72psi if I remember correctly. @Rob are these numbers correct pressure range?

    Theory would be that if the oil pressure would be too high, oil would not drain fast enough thus backing up in the cartridge then leaking. I need to check my pressure (cleanly!) and get back with numbers.

    For #5 , I may check my midpipes (stock exhaust) to make sure not one CAT is partially plugged. That might be far fetch for my problem because I am making more than decent power and I do not think that I could with a partially plugged CAT. As for a boost leak (on the same tubo), it has been validated and all checked ok.

    As for the suggestion for getting rid of the Forge DV's, it is in the way, a new Tial will be in place shortly.

    Thanks Rob for reaching out to the other user that had a similar issue. This is kinda going out of your way to help me out, I appreciate. as for the OCC, it has been cleaned/checked/disassembled multiple time while diagnosing/maintaining, no issue found, circuit should be really tight. Maybe only on the external PCV, I could install a screw type clamp instead of the supplied spring type clamp to make a better seal (on the Earl 350 tube)
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  11. #11
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    As we sell these turbos to tons of others all with N54 engines, we highly doubt you somehow have a unique case of too much oil pressure.

    Honestly (and as stated offline) we would suggest installing the Tial BOV (you have coming) then just drive the car.

    If you do not see smoke, perfect.
    If you do not get abnormal oil consumption, perfect.
    If the boost targets are met with ease, perfect.
    If the turbos spool smoothly and quietly, perfect.
    If the car drives great, perfect.
    If you decide to pull your charge pipe off and look around and see some oil in there, ignore it.

    Rest assured that everything else you are saying is leading one to believe there are no issues. And if there is an issue you absolutely 1 Bazillion percent will see it in the form of extreme oil loss, there is no way around this as oil does not regenerate.

    All said excess oil in the charge tract (which leads to oil consumption) is typically related to excess blowby. Excess blowby is typically caused by a failing engine or possibly PCV issues. But once again, no oil consumption, no worries.

    Thanks,
    Rob

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Well,
    I may not have mentioned it in this post here is some facts:

    1- this car is used only for drag races, not a daily so oil consumption is harder to figure out. I do need to add oil between changes but for now, instead of just telling any numbers, I prefer saying that I do not know by how much. I never said/mentioned that I do not loose oil. Between 2-5 runs per week, getting an idea about oil consumption takes quite a long time.

    2- For the blowby, there is no pipe returning to the rear intake tube ( I vent to air to diagnose) so it would not come from there. External RB PCV is all checked up. I may have wanted to return to stock PCV to test but I cannot as my head ports are plugged. I will start to monitor crankase pressure in case blowby is causing an issue there.

    I have the car for 3 years, I know the car's behavior concerning oil in the intake tract. It was always a light oily coat and no accumulation. There is clearly an issue now, it is not just me wanting my CP to be clean.

    Now when I go to drag, after every single pass, I have to empty the CP with a syringe with a small tube attached to reach down. After the first 2 pass, I see the following:
    - more oil per pass are getting in the CP
    - a rapid degradation of my timings. By the third or forth pass, my timings dropped by as much as 5-7 degrees. Need to lower my boost by around 3-4psi to get back same timings as first 2 runs. Cannot make more than 4 pass as my timings are getting scary and my meth is puddling in the CP due to the already big oil puddle accumulating during the pass.

    Seems the hotter the car gets (after couple of passes), more oil leak back to the intake, which result in getting more oil throwned in the intake valves, thus reducing my octane rating, thus my timings.

    Car CANNOT be run normally for drag with this issue. Closing my eyes and saying that there is no problem because my turbo manufacturer said so is not cutting it for me.

    My oil pressure tests are like this: (using mechanical glycerin filled gauge, as there is a lot of pulsing)

    Cold start: 7 bar (101psi) rapidly going down.
    5 bar (72psi) after 2 minutes
    3.5 bar (50psi) after 5 minutes
    2 bar (29psi) after 15 minutes
    1.6 bar(23psi) when hot
    all these idling. when cruising, pressure changes with RPM but it is limited at 6 bar (87psi)

    Specifications form BMW calls for min 1.5bar (21psi) idle and 4-6bar running (58-87psi)
    I just seem to be over spec for a couple of seconds upon a cold start. But that should not be my issue because when I am at the drag, oil is hot, I empty the CP and it is getting full on the next run.
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  13. #13
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    No one is saying to close your eyes to what could be a problem, we are just trying to help you quickly find out if you even have a problem... that is by gauging your oil consumption rate and we have not ever been able to get anything from you aside "this is only a drag car so hard for me to tell if there is any" or "little to no oil consumption" or the like. Literally 10's of hours and hundreds of emails have been spent trying to help you out offline, now here, etc. Unfortunately we are still going to be on our own here most likely as we do not know of anyone else reporting things such as this...

    With that said we'd suggest putting the car into actual normal usage, simply put on some "normal" miles, and obtain an oil consumption rate. For what its worth BMW service indicates that 1qt per 800 miles to be the low normal threshold for a stock N54. So if you are seeing a LOT better than this then carry on with life, especially if you are seeing something like 1qt per 2k or better. If the consumption rate is high then look deeper such as in checking out the cylinders once again to confirm something hasn't changed since the last time you checked them.

    You can also try another PCV valve from your local Toyota dealership, maybe by chance you somehow got some debris stuck in it? If you blow in it with any sort of force however and it seals it should be fine. If PCV is ruled out then it is most likely and engine issue... ie. one of the N54 gremlins such as bent rods, cracked ring lands, or degraded/broken rings. This is not something you are wanting, obviously, but it is what your issues sounds like to me on the surface... and rest assured you'd be one of many we have seen as these motors seem to be falling apart for many out there these days (not many discuss it, they quietly replace and carry on).

    Sadly we've also some seen some over the years do compression and leak down tests only to somehow find good results; and only after persistent problems decide to do to a full tear down and find they have bent rods, ovaled out cylinders, and the like. How they got the good results on the cylinder health tests? Not sure wasn't there, but this happens and is a documented real world thing that some have encountered over the years.

    Also make sure to put on the Tial BOV you have coming, maybe your Forge diverters are leaking (like most all of them seem to do) and the poor turbos are spinning their asses off trying to overcome its leaks. This is a stretch as your logs should show very high WGDC if this were a significant issue, something that you'd encountered early on when you had the wrong springs in your diverters. As for your oil pressure it seems fine to me.

    Ultimately what we do know from nearly a decade on this platform, is that when the turbos go south they exhibit all the things we already discussed in posts above... quick recap is a great combination of smoking like a mofo, tons of oil consumption, whining, not meeting targets, etc.

    Perhaps post up some pics of your high side ventilation and low side setup too, maybe there is just something you are somehow overlooking that would be easy to see from another set of eyes.

    Rob
    Last edited by Rob@RBTurbo; 09-14-2018 at 12:26 AM.

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    Well I can't see any other reason to have oil in your intake track, with PCV VTA, besides turbos...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Weehe Click here to enlarge
    Well I can't see any other reason to have oil in your intake track, with PCV VTA, besides turbos...
    Have you seen turbos push oil into the intake tract, while not smoking well beforehand, or having no signs of damage or shaft play, all while being perfectly functional? We have not.

    What can you see about this condition of turbo passing oil into the tract while being installed on a failed/failing engine? This we have seen but even this usually amounts to smoking as well.

    One more thing make sure the flapper assembly is intact, not leaking, and functional. If it is not you'll be pulling a ton of oil into the charge pipe through the PCV valve itself (the flappers presence restricts the airflow through the crankcase by design) which would dump oil right into the throttle body area via vacuum reference, also create a large vacuum leak, etc. But we are pretty sure he had ruled this out as well.

    Rob
    Last edited by Rob@RBTurbo; 09-14-2018 at 10:24 AM.

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    Well just thinking logically, there could only be two options for getting oil in the charge pipe with this setup. Turbo is somehow getting oil in or a cylinder/ring is so bad that it is literally pushing oil back into the intake track (which would smoke like crazy and run like $#@!).

    Unless there is a catch can/PCV system attached to the intake track that I missed, oil can't come from anywhere else.

    Glancing through the posts again he still has the stock cats. This would significantly reduce visible smoking.

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    I do not see anywhere where he has stated he has stock cats, unless you mean secondaries, then perhaps he does... but do not see an answer one way or the other. As this is his dedicated drag strip car we'd think he wouldn't be running any, but he can answer better than anyone there.

    At any rate another quicker perspective to help isolate: Pull of the hot side connection to the intercooler, see if the IC is literally flooded with oil... if oil in it clean out and drive and check it again. NOTE: Some oil will build in there and it is fairly normal, but if there is a big problem as you say surely there would be an overflow of oil in there too as it would have to start there and move upstream towards the TB. If you get continual flooding in the Hot side of IC, we'd agree that it would have to most likely come from the turbos. In that event it would come back down to the why, as it should never happen as long as the engine is not bad and the turbos are paying the price by being installed upon it.

    Ultimately and best case scenario there could be some good chances he is somehow pulling a ton of oil back through the PCV valve/OCC and into the TB vacuum reference- although he says it checks out. The only case we have encountered was just that after all. Especially if the hot side connection of the IC looks fairly dry, or normal, and not tons of oil flooding it.

    Rob
    Last edited by Rob@RBTurbo; 09-14-2018 at 04:29 PM.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Ok, let's clarify a few things, sorry for the long post but details are important.

    - I did installed a brand new Toyota PCV valve (I am using Rb's external PCV) even though mine was still cleaned and seemed to function properly. I do not currently have a low side catch can, it returns directly to a 3/8" nipple that I drilled on the IM. I do have a BMS OCC, was routed as usual. Now venting to atmosphere to isolate the issue. still same oil problem

    - I have catless DPs but I still have the rear one with the stock exhaust

    - I first discovered the issue with the rear turbo hotside collar leaking. recently, a boroscope showed a little bit of oil stuck in the elbow of the rear turbo hot side charge pipe (with arrows)
    Click here to enlarge

    - removed DP's 2 weeks ago to inspect turbos for shaft play (was none). On the rear turbo, I noticed oil on the compressor side intake wheel, were my silicone evo style intake attach. Seemed like it was not coming from the intake tube. My though was that the cartridge was filling with oil and was leaking on both side of the wheel. There was not much but I clearly did not expected to see oil present there.

    - did yesterday leakdown test, about 2% on all cylinders. Need to redo compression but it was done in the spring to determine my oil problem and it was ok, they were all 165-170 dry.

    - due to my mishap with the oil line bursting, I temporarily refilled the car with Castrol synthetic 10w30 and oil in my CP was way worst. 10w30 is tinner than my regular Motul 8100 5W40

    - my forge DV's have been rebuilded with new pistons/orings last month just preventive maintenance and also to rule out this possiibility. in my logs, I got a WGDC of about 65% for 23psi (offline I said lower value but just learned the WGDC scaling in the JB4 log). Not sure what would be the norm for my setup. Tial coming for sure still.

    - as for something wrong in the engine, it sure can still be a possibility but I cannot understand how it would make the turbo blow oil. Unless there is so much blowby due to maybe ovaled cylinders that would pressurize my crankcase, preventing proper oil drain. As stated, I will figure out something to monitor the crankcase pressure, most likely at the VC.

    - my flapper is new from this spring. I removed it couple weeks ago to test. pressure one way limited (by design) while opening the other way. Looked perfectly normal. even compared to my old one and all was ok.


    Rob; I know you keep telling me to use the car as a normal daily, but it absolutely does not make sense to do so just to get a oil consumption number, something in the car is clearly not healthy. By trying to keep running the car like this, I risk getting more more carbon deposit on the top of cylinders and cause more bad than good. I want to figure out the issue without driving the car daily.

    Now from your last messages, I retain 2 thing that I need to test;
    1- clean the IC drive and recheck to see if coming from the turbos or IM
    2- PCV issue pulling amount of oil in the IM (my vacuum reference is a tap in the IM)

    for the #1 , pretty straight forward. For the #2 , I would like to vent everything to atmosphere to rule out chances of dumping oil in the IM due to wrong vacuum or else. My flapper is connected to the OCC input, output is venting to air (with a small cloth filter to prevent dirt entering). Only my external PCV returning to to IM. I will try to vent to atmosphere but I will loose the vacuum...
    Last edited by stephtech; 09-15-2018 at 12:55 AM. Reason: forgot pic
    2010 E90 335XI 6AT with XHP stage 3 | JB4 G5 W/Trebila Tune | RB Next Gen 15T | RB hot side INLETs | ETS FMIC | VRSF CP | FORGE DV | Custom METH KIT CM10+CM5 plus MMP gen2 PI | AR design cer. DPs | BMS OCC | RB external PCV w/plugged HEAD. Best 1/4: 11.47@123mph

  19. #19
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    I cant say this is your issue but i cant even count the number of threads i have seen where people have problems with forge DV's. Granted some of them are maintenance related but there are better options on the market

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Optigrab Click here to enlarge
    I cant say this is your issue but i cant even count the number of threads i have seen where people have problems with forge DV's. Granted some of them are maintenance related but there are better options on the market
    Agree.

    One of the first things we went through a couple years ago right after install, was that the diverters were leaking like a sieve and he wasn't meeting targets for quite a while. The WGDC's were spiked to the moon and he was only making about 15psi or so, which is basically unheard of without some sort of large leaks... but all checked out.

    Hours upon hours and tons of emails later, nothing added up, and no idea what else to say were just about ready to agree with his thoughts and condemn simply to check them out, although it was something we then too thought was a waste. Fortunately he later found (after we gave up) that the diverters were not adjusted correctly and basically the turbos were working overtime to try to pressurize the intake, but as the turbos know no better they were really trying to pressurize the atmosphere through leaking/misadjusted diverters.

    At any rate that was corrected and we moved on and the turbos seem to weather it fine, but still it is like get those diverters off of there and was something we'd suggested even back then. Now they are still installed and freshly rebuilt and vented to atmosphere like a BOV, and a source of oil spewed upon the engine bay from some unknown reason.

    At the end of the day we have put forth what we can and said what we can say, x1000. If he thinks its the turbos he can feel free to remove them, but we are just trying our best to say we have not encountered this failure mode and feel it will likely be a large waste of his time to do as such. Then it comes back to what is the issue? We do not know and we can only suggest possibilities, but they are subsequently ruled out.

    There comes a point administratively where as a vendor you just have to say "Do as you wish, send back turbos for inspection if you think they are the cause of the issue" which was where we were at just prior to this thread being posted. The units in particular he has have been ultra reliable now over 3 years of production (since 9/15), and are well documented in our reliability thread to be basically bullet proof. To quickly summarize no sets came back in 2015, 2 sets in 2016 (one for extreme abuse and the other for BOV surge issue that snapped shaft and obliterated the compressor wheel), no sets in 2017, and only 1 set so far in 2018 and that was due to a fried engine (yet still showed up in great shape).

    Thanks,
    Rob
    Last edited by Rob@RBTurbo; 09-17-2018 at 02:01 PM.

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