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  1. #1
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    Here is a DIY for the install:

    Legal note: I do not assume any responsibility for errors or omissions contained within this DIY. All users of this DIY assume responsibility for any issues or problems that arise from the use of this DIY. This DIY should be used as a supplemental aid only. If you are unsure of your abilities or steps to complete this task you should consult a professional for assistance.

    Time needed: 2-3 hours

    Tools needed:
    Small flathead screwdriver
    10mm socket
    Lock Ring removal tool (recommended)
    Cutting pliers
    ” Socket Breaker Bar
    25 amp mini fuse
    Vent line hose clip (underside)
    1/8” Tee
    1/8”x1/8” straight hose connector
    1/8” Hose x 1/8” NPT Female connector
    Zip ties
    Old bucket (Homer bucket, Lowes bucket, etc.)

    Step 1: Prep

    TIP: Your fuel gauge should be at tank or less. Less is better in this case…believe me.

    Start by removing the fuel cap to release any pressure in the system.
    Next remove the 20 amp mini fuse for the fuel pump (position 70), this will be replaced later with a 25amp fuse

    Click here to enlarge

    Step 2: Seat Removal

    Next remove the passenger side back seat (E92) or rear seat (E9x) (e92 shown in pics)

    Click here to enlarge

    Pull up on front edge of the rear seat. There are two clips on both sides. This may require a bit of effort so pull like you mean it lol.

    Under seat clip

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Once you have the seat removed place it to the side and pull back the black mat.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Step 3: Fuel Pump Removal

    Use a 10mm socket to remove the four nuts to expose the fuel pump lock ring.
    TIP: MAKE SURE TO NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE CAP (the arrow points towards the front of the car, as well as the dimple)

    Click here to enlarge

    Once you have the lock ring exposed, you will need to disconnect the two plugs located on top. The plugs have a small lever on the side which must be pressed in to release the plugs from the cap.

    Click here to enlarge

    Once you have the plugs removed, you will need to disconnect the vent lines. The vent lines have a small lever (blue in the picture) that must be pressed in in order for the vent lines to be removed.

    Click here to enlarge

    Once you have all the lines removed, it’s time to remove the lock ring. The small vent line can be tucked out of the way between the fuel tank and the body.

    Click here to enlarge

    The larger vent line, however, will be your constant enemy in getting this project done as it always seems to get in the way.

    TIP: Your best bet it to get a piece of string to wrap around the head of the larger vent line and then wrapping the other end of the string around the seat hook under the seat back in order to get the vent line out of the way.

    Click here to enlarge

    TIP: I found this tool on Amazon for a bit over $10 shipped (with Amazon Prime). It works flawlessly to remove the cap and to tighten the cap. No need for a $40 tool.

    Click here to enlarge

    If you are using the tool above or similar tool, align the lock ring teeth with the tool. Put your breaker bar on the top of the tool and turn counter clockwise to remove the lock ring. Steady, strong force wins the race here.

    Click here to enlarge

    After removing the lock ring you are now ready to remove the fuel pump.
    Lift the top of the pump enough to access the vent line. This vent line is short, be careful not to pull the head of the vent line out of the vent tube when trying to get the vent line off.

    Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    Removal of this clip will probably take up most of your time and be the bane of your existence. There are two teeth on both sides of the clip that must be dislocated in order to remove the vent line.

    TIP: I recommend buying a spare one and having it on hand in case you get frustrated and decide to just break it in order to get it off.

    In order get this clip out you must push on both exposed sides of the clip a bit at a time. You cannot simply push one side out and then the other as it will lock in the teeth on the opposite side. Both sides of the clip must move together as much as possible.

    Once you have the vent line detached, you can disconnect the fuel pump and fuel level clips on the underside of the bucket cap.

    Hopefully you have a tank that is near empty. Pour as much of the fuel in your fuel bucket back into the tank before you try to remove the fuel bucket.

    To remove the bucket, pull up on the bucket until you feel resistance, then rock the bucket towards the passenger side door to get the fuel level float out with the bucket.

    Set fuel pump assembly in your old bucket (homer bucket).


    Step 4: Dual Fuel Pump Install


    Your new setup (if you decided to copy my setup) is quite a bit larger than the original pump. This part is a little tricky but don’t let it get the best of you, take your time on this part and things will go smoothly.

    First, connect all of your wiring as shown previously, if you are using a similar set up as described earlier. Make sure your fuel pump and fuel level connections are connected and tight. You do not want to have the need to dig back into the tank again to fix something.

    Next, fold your fuel pickup pads in half in order to be able to get them into the tank. Do not fold them under but fold them up so that once in the tank the pads are able to lay out to their full length. Now, turn the assembly on its side to put the fuel level float into the tank first. Then turn the tank upright and ease the folded pickup pads into the tank. The assembly should drop right in after doing this.

    TIP: Make sure that your fuel level float moves freely and is not stuck underneath the fuel pick up pad or the edge of the bucket once the fuel pump assembly has been lowered into the tank.

    [Below: The top of the bucket is not assembled in order to take clear pictures]

    Click here to enlarge

    Next, you will need to modify your fuel feed line.

    Click here to enlarge

    Remove the end piece on the fuel feed line carefully. You will need to remove the clamp and heat the tubing a little in order get the end piece out. DO NOT USE AN OPEN FLAME TO HEAT THE END PIECE!!

    Once you have removed the end piece, push the hose from your fuel pumps into the fuel feed line. Use a clamp to secure the lines together.

    Click here to enlarge

    Re-attach your vent lines and ensure that all your connections are tight.
    Next, push the top of the bucket down onto the tank. Make sure the top of the fuel bucket has a lip that aligns with the top of the tank. Put the top fuel pump ring on while holding the top of the bucket down. Turn the ring clockwise by hand until you feel the screws catch. Continue turning the ring until you feel enough resistance to need the lock ring tool to turn the ring enough to get it back to its original position.

    Click here to enlarge

    Note that there are teeth missing on the top lock ring. The large vent line should center in between the missing teeth. This is your indication that you have tightened the lock ring down enough.

    The fuel pump install is now complete. Lets work on the Hobbs switch before we put the rear seat back in.

    Step 5: Hobbs switch install


    Click here to enlarge

    If you are using a pre-assembled harness as shown above this will describe exactly what you will need to install it.

    As you can see, one end will need to connect to the fuel pump, the other end will need to be connected to the battery and a ground, while the last end of the harness will need to be connected to a positive boost source.

    Before we get started, I need to give credit to jyamona@motiv from which I totally stole the idea to hook up the hobbs switch in the trunk.

    Lets layout the harness in the trunk so that you can get a better idea of where things will end up.

    Click here to enlarge

    Remove the trunk floor in your car and layout the harness.

    Click here to enlarge

    Pull the end of the harness going to the fuel pump underneath the trunk surround and under the rear seat back.

    Click here to enlarge

    Put a hole in rubber part of the top of the fuel tank cover.

    Click here to enlarge

    Then fish the end of your hobbs switch harness through the hole you have made in the rubber grommet.

    Click here to enlarge

    Connect the harness to the fuel pump.

    You are now ready to re-install your rear seat bottom cushion.

    Next, remove the accessory compartment on the drivers side of the trunk. Fish the hobbs switch and harness under the trunk flooring.

    Click here to enlarge

    The exhaust flapper solenoid is accessible through the access panel on the drivers side. Unplug the solenoid and remove the hose that connects to the bottom (not the side hose, this connects to the flapper in the exhaust system)

    Click here to enlarge

    Connect the hose to the hobbs switch. The hose should be accessible through the hole where the accessory compartment was located that was removed earlier.

    Click here to enlarge

    Now, you can put the accessory compartment back into place as we are done her.

    Next lets move to the other side where the battery is located so that we can connect power to the harness.

    Remove the access panel for the battery on the passenger side.

    Connect the negative cable to the bolt shown and the positive cable fits neatly in the area shown on the battery terminal.

    Click here to enlarge

    Tuck the relay and fuse in behind the battery. Put the battery access panel back into place.

  3. #3
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    Put your trunk flooring back in and you are done here.

    Next lets move to the engine bay.

    Locate the flapper hose that is connected to the trunk solenoid for the exhaust flap and the hose that connects from the manifold to the diverter valves.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Disconnect the flapper hose from the hose that connects to the brake booster. Cap the tee where the flapper hose has been removed.

    Connect the flapper hose with a piece of 1/8” hose using the 1/8”x1/8” straight connector.

    Cut the hose that runs between the diverter valves and the manifold.
    Insert a 1/8” tee between the flapper hose and the hose that you just cut that connects to the manifold.

    Click here to enlarge

    Zip tie all the connections and make sure they are tight.

    Lastly, make sure you put in your new 25 amp mini fuse into slot 70. Your new Walbro 450 pump draws a bit over 21 amps when running 12~13 volts, so your old 20 amp fuse won’t work.

    THAT’S IT! YOU ARE DONE!

  4. #4
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    There you go @TEC, should be all good now.

  5. #5
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Thanks for doing this!

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for doing this!
    My pleasure.

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    Subbed.

  8. #8
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    Great write up! I have a question... the exhaust flapper is controlled by the DME? Tuners know where the table is that tells the flapper to open and close ? Why not use that logic to run the second pump as needed ? Indeed it can be used to run meth, intercooler sprayer, etc etc. the logic for the flapper would be pretty close to all of the high load conditions if im not mistaken.

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    I suggested this to martial from MHD years ago... he never responded i just assumed i was wrong.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    Great write up! I have a question... the exhaust flapper is controlled by the DME? Tuners know where the table is that tells the flapper to open and close ? Why not use that logic to run the second pump as needed ? Indeed it can be used to run meth, intercooler sprayer, etc etc. the logic for the flapper would be pretty close to all of the high load conditions if im not mistaken.
    Thats an excellent idea, however I am not a DME chemical brain scientist. Would be great to do this if you (or someone else) can figure it out.

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    Great write up! I have a question... the exhaust flapper is controlled by the DME? Tuners know where the table is that tells the flapper to open and close ? Why not use that logic to run the second pump as needed ? Indeed it can be used to run meth, intercooler sprayer, etc etc. the logic for the flapper would be pretty close to all of the high load conditions if im not mistaken.
    Maybe the flapper might not open or close as quick as boost builds and drops off in the charge pipe. So the pump might stay on too long or take too long to activate. Just a blind guess. I have no idea if that's actually true.
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.74@129 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, custom bucketless stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  12. #12
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    You would think that a programable electrical signal would be a better option than a pressure switch? Turn it on sooner and leave on till later...that’s the whole point of having a table of loads vs rpms etc

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    I suggested this to martial from MHD years ago... he never responded i just assumed i was wrong.
    Suggest it to @trevorlee02 and see what he thinks.

  14. #14
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    The problem with the signal to the flapper circuit is that it is made for on and off operations. 12VDC and no power. Varying the voltage to the aftermarket fuel pump can be done by manipulating the signal. However, remember that this particular fuel pump is made to run at 12-14.5 VDC at all times. Varying the voltage to a pwm signal is possible, but I personally believe that it would do more damage then good. If you disconnect your EKPM and run a straight 12VDC to your main fuel pump then what will happen??? NOTHING, the pump will run at full speed for as long as you have gas in the tank. Vehicles have been ran at the full 12VDC for over 30 years, I personally don't care for the PWM signal manipulation due to load. I bypassed my main pump to run on EKPM power and have my 2nd pump kicking on at 7-9 psi at 12VDC as well. The regulators are made to send fuel back that isn't needed. Replacing a regulator is far easier than replacing a $150 control module.

    That being said though, if you would like I can try to define the table based upon rpm, boost, and load to vary the signal to the exhaust flapper.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    First, very nice work @TEC. You did it the exact same way I did, glad I was able to inspire you Click here to enlarge I never got the tag for some reason, so I'm just seeing this post now.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    I suggested this to martial from MHD years ago... he never responded i just assumed i was wrong.
    Flapper signal based 2nd pump activation (or anything else requiring a 12V trigger) will be available very soon. There were a lot of interesting conditions that affected the signal logic that had to be removed Click here to enlarge
    BIG things coming soon Click here to enlarge

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    Awesome - Please elaborate on the interesting conditions?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    Awesome - Please elaborate on the interesting conditions?
    They are just various different reasons the DME triggers the exhaust flap pin, outside of the static mph and torque request table. Most were conditions you wouldn't want/need your second pump or whatever else activating Click here to enlarge
    BIG things coming soon Click here to enlarge

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trevorlee02 Click here to enlarge
    The problem with the signal to the flapper circuit is that it is made for on and off operations. 12VDC and no power. Varying the voltage to the aftermarket fuel pump can be done by manipulating the signal. However, remember that this particular fuel pump is made to run at 12-14.5 VDC at all times. Varying the voltage to a pwm signal is possible, but I personally believe that it would do more damage then good. If you disconnect your EKPM and run a straight 12VDC to your main fuel pump then what will happen??? NOTHING, the pump will run at full speed for as long as you have gas in the tank. Vehicles have been ran at the full 12VDC for over 30 years, I personally don't care for the PWM signal manipulation due to load. I bypassed my main pump to run on EKPM power and have my 2nd pump kicking on at 7-9 psi at 12VDC as well. The regulators are made to send fuel back that isn't needed. Replacing a regulator is far easier than replacing a $150 control module.

    That being said though, if you would like I can try to define the table based upon rpm, boost, and load to vary the signal to the exhaust flapper.
    So did you upgrade your regulator?
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.74@129 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, custom bucketless stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  19. #19
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    Definitely upgraded my regulator to an external.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trevorlee02 Click here to enlarge
    Definitely upgraded my regulator to an external.
    Is there any info posted anywhere on how to do this?

    Thanks
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.74@129 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, custom bucketless stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

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    I finally get to see the pics awesome job TEC

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 07Tundra Click here to enlarge
    I finally get to see the pics awesome job TEC
    Thanks bro!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    Thanks, bro!
    I have a customer in NY with my stage two running 26psi ST pressure is beautiful before swapping to mine he had you know whos and couldn't run much more than 22psi without pressure falling. Needless to say, he's very happy and will post soon when he's done tuning.

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    I don't have pics right now, but I will see if I can get some together...

  25. #25
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trevorlee02 Click here to enlarge
    I don't have pics right now, but I will see if I can get some together...
    Thanks. Would help.

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