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    • Removing direct injection carbon deposits with chemicals rather than walnut blasting?

      BoostAddict is seeing more and more posts about chemical direct injection fuel system cleaning solutions. Color this website skeptical but over the years some pretty bad carbon build up (namely in Audi 4.2 FSI and BMW N54 motors) was posted and it took a direct physical solution to clean off the carbon deposits.


      BG Products is known for various automotive cleaning chemicals and they state they have a two part gasoline direct injection cleaning solution.

      Quote Originally Posted by BG Products
      BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner is a two-part cleaning process formulated to soften and disperse baked-on deposits that accumulate on intake valves of direct injected engines.

      Direct injection engine deposits create a unique problem. Because the deposits form on the injector tip, the spray pattern becomes deformed. This causes fuel to ignite prematurely, producing a pinging and knocking. Left unchecked, these deposits begin to form on intake valves as well, dealing a serious blow to fuel economy and vehicle performance.


      BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner dissolves hardened fuel deposits that accumulate on injector tips and intake valves. Installed by a professional, it restores lost engine performance and fuel economy.
      Is this really a replacement for good old fashioned walnut blasting? It certainly sounds easier to just pour in some cleaner but it is hard to believe it would work better or even anywhere near as good as physical removal.

      The company posts some amazing before/after photos of their products at work:


      They also certainly have a nice selection of cleaning products.

      BoostAddict would like to see proof their product works for direct injection fuel systems.


      This carbon is so hard to clean up, car care specialists are resorting to engine teardown and media blasting. Imagine a pressure washer blasting an ammunition of plastic or glass beads, aluminum oxide, or ground-up walnut shells.⠀
      ......⠀
      What. A. Mess. ⠀
      ......⠀
      The new BG Platinum™ Fuel System Service cleans gasoline direct injection systems so well, there’s no need for media blasting. ⠀

      You can save those walnuts for your Thanksgiving dinner.⠀

      This article was originally published in forum thread: Removing direct injection carbon deposits with chemicals rather than walnut blasting? started by Sticky View original post
      Comments 17 Comments
      1. F16HTON's Avatar
        F16HTON -
        Been using this stuff for 10+ years. BG just put new labels on the cans. At least 30 minutes per cylinder, typically 45. $99 in product for 4cyl, $198 8cyl

        Walnut shell blasting is much more efficient and cost effective.
      1. 0-60Motorsports's Avatar
        0-60Motorsports -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by F16HTON Click here to enlarge
        Been using this stuff for 10+ years. BG just put new labels on the cans. At least 30 minutes per cylinder, typically 45. $99 in product for 4cyl, $198 8cyl

        Walnut shell blasting is much more efficient and cost effective.
        Agreed, Going to be doing my wifes MK6 Golf R and it'll only cost me $100 labor and I need to buy a manifold gasket, Cheap and easy.
      1. Flinchy's Avatar
        Flinchy -
        Impossible for this to work on a direct injection motor.
      1. Stevenh's Avatar
        Stevenh -
        Where do they claim the deposits go? They just magically disappear? If this does work, having them "break up" and falling into the cylinder is far from ideal.
      1. maxnix's Avatar
        maxnix -
        Worth noting that no BMW engines are cited for their Platinum Fuel Service program:

        https://www.bgprod.com/reference/platref/
      1. sahyoun's Avatar
        sahyoun -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
        Impossible for this to work on a direct injection motor.
        Why? The directions state to remove the manifold, cost the valves on one of the runners, put the solution in, wait and scrub then vacuum. I did something similar with seafoam and it worked. This does not enter through the fuel system.

        https://www.will-son.com/docs/Direct..._Procedure.pdf
      1. martymil's Avatar
        martymil -
        it can be done even cheaper with a bit of elbow grease, a small array of wire brushes, a roll of paper towels, a pair of rubber gloves, protective glasses and 2 or 3 cans of brake cleaner.

        Far cheaper and wont take more than a couple of hrs and even faster when done more often like 20k intervals and engine will love you for it.
      1. subaru335i's Avatar
        subaru335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sahyoun Click here to enlarge
        Why? The directions state to remove the manifold, cost the valves on one of the runners, put the solution in, wait and scrub then vacuum. I did something similar with seafoam and it worked. This does not enter through the fuel system.

        https://www.will-son.com/docs/Direct..._Procedure.pdf
        This link from BG itself just says to attach the applicator to a vacuum source with the engine running and burn it off like Seafoam. This is garbage and will not work just like Seafoam didn't do $#@! to N54 DI buildup.

        https://www.bgprod.com/reference/platref/

        If you have to take the manifold off and close the valve manually like in your link then why not just go do a full Media Blasting it is waaaay easier and cheaper than this expensive chemical that will possibly get in your oil and $#@! up your engine.
      1. sahyoun's Avatar
        sahyoun -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by subaru335i Click here to enlarge
        This link from BG itself just says to attach the applicator to a vacuum source with the engine running and burn it off like Seafoam. This is garbage and will not work just like Seafoam didn't do $#@! to N54 DI buildup.

        https://www.bgprod.com/reference/platref/

        If you have to take the manifold off and close the valve manually like in your link then why not just go do a full Media Blasting it is waaaay easier and cheaper than this expensive chemical that will possibly get in your oil and $#@! up your engine.
        Where are you reading that it should be running? In the link i posted it says get it up to operating temp. Then remove the intake manifold, shutting the engine off is implied considering they tell you to close the valves for each port. The link i posted is from BG hence the copyright at the bottom of the page. I wouldnt say carbon blasting is cheaper considering some people may have to buy a decent air compressor, media blaster and media. On top of that you ideally want some sort of solvent and scrubber for a perfect cleaning.

        I've used sea foam with some brushes and it was fine but to be honest my gun cleaning kit and hoppes #9 did the trick and was like $30 but takes some patience and time.
      1. subaru335i's Avatar
        subaru335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sahyoun Click here to enlarge
        Where are you reading that it should be running? In the link i posted it says get it up to operating temp. Then remove the intake manifold, shutting the engine off is implied considering they tell you to close the valves for each port. The link i posted is from BG hence the copyright at the bottom of the page. I wouldnt say carbon blasting is cheaper considering some people may have to buy a decent air compressor, media blaster and media. On top of that you ideally want some sort of solvent and scrubber for a perfect cleaning.

        I've used sea foam with some brushes and it was fine but to be honest my gun cleaning kit and hoppes #9 did the trick and was like $30 but takes some patience and time.
        You clearly didn't click the link in my reply. It has instructions for this product in all different makes and models and all of them say to keep the engine running.
      1. sahyoun's Avatar
        sahyoun -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by subaru335i Click here to enlarge
        You clearly didn't click the link in my reply. It has instructions for this product in all different makes and models and all of them say to keep the engine running.
        It didnt load the link on my phone originally. Either way, looks like they have two ways of applying.
      1. kingtal0n's Avatar
        kingtal0n -
        I've always thought 100% distilled water injection was an easy way to keep carbon off of internal engine parts. It definitely clears gasoline carbon byproduct from pistons and the rest of the CC.
      1. martymil's Avatar
        martymil -
        Yes it does but also destroys wideband o2 sensors very quickly
      1. kingtal0n's Avatar
        kingtal0n -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by martymil Click here to enlarge
        Yes it does but also destroys wideband o2 sensors very quickly
        Thats a myth. Where did you even read that? Water most certainly does NOT harm O2 sensors lol.
        Water is literally created when gasoline burns. You burn gas you get H2O and CO2.

        Good lord what have you been reading?
      1. martymil's Avatar
        martymil -
        When you replace 4x o2 sensors after running to much water on my bmw you quickly learn not to, no issues since not running it.

        By product of a gasoline burn is maybe 1/100th what you spray into an engine.

        No one saying you can't but our o2 sensors aren't cheap your risk
      1. kingtal0n's Avatar
        kingtal0n -
        You are making up numbers.

        Try using google
        "Therefore one gallon of gasoline produces about 217.5 moles of water. Each mole of water has a weight of 18 grams. So the burning of one gallon of gasoline produces 3,914.6 grams of water. This is equal to 8.6 pounds of water, which has a volume of 1.033 gallons."


        1 gallon of gasoline apparently creates 8.6 pounds of water, about a gallon of water.

        Even using the largest water injection nozzle for 1500hp application, it doesn't inject that much water.

        nice try though.

        Next, Oxygen sensor narrowband units are all identical. That means the $3 1-wire sensors will work in place of any narrowband for any car in the world. There are universal 3 and 4 wire sensors for $4-$12 available. You can literally walk into any auto store and start price checking their narrowband sensors, find the cheapest unit and wire it on.

        I am sorry if you paid alot for narrowband sensors but the truth is, any sensor would work from any car ever made pretty much.
      1. martymil's Avatar
        martymil -
        Maybe that was a little exaggeration but

        a single cm10 flows flow around 10 gallons of water at 100 psi, at 150 psi is 12.2 at 200psi is 14 and at 300psi its around 15 to 16 gallons per hour

        Since most run a 300psi or bigger pump that's on the conservative side is around 15 gallons of water per hr.

        Running pure distilled water and how humid the air is will easily double the water output what gasoline alone will produce per gallon out of the exhaust that's with a single nozzle that's why they only recommend running at the most 20% water to 80% meth with our cars it's not to excessively introduce water in the exhaust and near the sensor.

        Most people run at least 2 nozzles exceeding the size of one cm10.

        You do the calculations.

        Bosch has written about this in a number of articles where water will damage and prematurely shorten the life of o2 sensors just search their articles you will find it.

        Any extra water that's introduced into the reaction goes outside the parameters what the o2 was designed
        to tolerate and will reduce the life of the o2, by how much really depends on the quality of the sensor and the amount of water the sensor is exposed to.