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  1. #1
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    4 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    Dual Walbro 450's: Ultimate Dual Setup?

    Share time!

    So my goal was to install two Walbro 450 pumps so that I could run e85 and push boost above 17 psi on the stock turbos and in the future possibly run a PI setup. I looked at a few companies offerings but I decided that I could build something that rivaled and even bettered what is currently on the market for a cheaper cost. This is not a knock on any company or their pricing for dual intank pumps but rather my Colt/DSM mentality to do it yourself and learn more about your car in the process.

    I’m not sure how this forum feels about posting pricing so I will intentionally leave this information out. You can PM me if you want to know where I picked up my parts.

    For this build I bought:
    Used stock fuel bucket – junk yard
    2 Walbro 450 Pumps with electrical connectors (no fuel socks needed)
    2 Holley Hydramats (model 16-111) - 15”x3” for Walbro pumps

    I contacted 07Tundra (Jose) for his help with this project…none of this would not have been possible without his help.

    He took the used bucket and with some modifications came up with this:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    What you see are two Walbro fuel pumps in a modified stock fuel bucket with an adapter to hold the pumps in place. Here is a look at the adapter as it was being laid out for use:

    Click here to enlarge

    The two pumps feed into PTE tubing and a PTE Y adapter. When I decide to go PI I will probably go back and feed only one pump into the stock fuel line and use the other pump to feed the PI. I cut a hole in the top of the fuel pump bucket top and fed through the wiring for the secondary pump.

    Click here to enlarge

    The main pump uses the stock wiring and is controlled by the DME as is the stock pump. The second pump is controlled by a Hobbs Switch mounted in the trunk.

    Click here to enlarge

    I am using the “prototype” adapter. I’ve been told that a newer version exists that looks more like this:

    Click here to enlarge


    My total cost for this project is less than what I would have paid another company for their version of the same thing, with the added bonus of being able to utilize the newest technology being the hydramats on dual pumps which no company currently offers.

    I’ve been driving the car with this setup installed and so far it has worked perfectly…no added pump noise and no LPFP fall off from E85 use.

  2. #2
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    Looks good. I'm having a hard time getting on the venturi delete trend but having built my own bucket using good old McmasterCarr I can appreciate the final product. Looks legit.

    The suggestion I would make for future DIY'ers is pinch clamps. PEEENCH CLAMPS!
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Daily - '11 F02, 22" HR springs+links Click here to enlarge N54

  3. #3
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    yo @07Tundra chime in

  4. #4
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    Could you please post better quality photos? Click here to enlarge
    YOU CAN!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Den* Click here to enlarge
    Could you please post better quality photos? Click here to enlarge
    I have other photos. Tell me what it is you want to see.

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    I have other photos. Tell me what it is you want to see.
    Last 2 photos Click here to enlarge
    YOU CAN!

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Den* Click here to enlarge
    Last 2 photos Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  8. #8
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Chime about what? Sticky pinch clamps are good but what happens when pump goes bad then you have to replace everything? Yes it it's not expensive to replace but why just use fuel injector clamps they are smooth and won't gouge anything or the pinch clamps.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    The bracket has additional holes on top, Why because the fpr side dumps fuel in the bucket keeping the hydramats saturated as the these hydramats are designed to work you never go into fuel Starvation even in the corners if you autocross.

  10. #10
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    I make the stainless bracket with tabs and I rivet the bracket in place . The two pumps are kept in place better than zipties lol. I have several of these brackets for other folks wanting to do the assembly themselves or like i did for Tec I can assemble it.

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    Cool, thank you very much!
    YOU CAN!

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    I’m not sure how this forum feels about posting pricing so I will intentionally leave this information out. You can PM me if you want to know where I picked up my parts.
    I personally don't have a problem with it and I'm sure guys would like to know what this costs to do?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I personally don't have a problem with it and I'm sure guys would like to know what this costs to do?
    Used Fuel Pump Assembly - $50 (car-part.com)
    Walbro pumps (w/elec. connectors) - $95/piece (ebay)
    Holley Hydramat 16-111 - $160/piece (summit racing)
    Hobbs Switch w/harness - $50 (FB group buy)
    Lockring removal tool - $12 (amazon.com)
    07Tundra mods and assembly ~ $150 (will let @07Tundra chime in on this as he is now getting the parts waterjet cut, etc.)

    So all in, I ended up putting in about $775 total into this project. When I was shopping around, the best deal I could find for something similar, but without the dual Hydramats, would have cost me ~$790.

    Also, I was asked this else where but its probably a good idea to mention it here...in order for this to work the bottom of the bucket assembly has to be removed and modified to accept the pumps and the Hydramats. The bucket no longer performs as it did in the stock setup. Fuel is still returned inside of the parameters of the bucket but it is free to fall into the bottom of the tank and onto the hydramats. The modified unit is more of a bucket and bucketless hybrid.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    Used Fuel Pump Assembly - $50 (car-part.com)
    Walbro pumps (w/elec. connectors) - $95/piece (ebay)
    Holley Hydramat 16-111 - $160/piece (summit racing)
    Hobbs Switch w/harness - $50 (FB group buy)
    Lockring removal tool - $12 (amazon.com)
    07Tundra mods and assembly ~ $150 (will let @07Tundra chime in on this as he is now getting the parts waterjet cut, etc.)

    So all in, I ended up putting in about $775 total into this project. When I was shopping around, the best deal I could find for something similar, but without the dual Hydramats, would have cost me ~$790.

    Also, I was asked this else where but its probably a good idea to mention it here...in order for this to work the bottom of the bucket assembly has to be removed and modified to accept the pumps and the Hydramats. The bucket no longer performs as it did in the stock setup. Fuel is still returned inside of the parameters of the bucket but it is free to fall into the bottom of the tank and onto the hydramats. The modified unit is more of a bucket and bucketless hybrid.
    Thats correct the bucket is utilized so the lines coming from the fpr side are keeping the hydramats saturated at all times but this is more of an insurance policy as Holley claims mats only need to be in contact with fuel so sitting in the tank as "others have it a normal filter sock sitting in tank without hydramats and a 1/4 of the size" is enough. So utilizing the fpr lines insures the mats will be in contact with fuel at all times no matter the fuel level, also no venturi is needed increasing flow to the engine!
    So Tec asked me for my assistance as I had done my inline walbro kit with the adapter since 2013ish with 100% e85 and still running to this day on 22psi ST with a Chris Kontos tune. I was limited to 22psi not because of my fuel but because I was 6at, I have since done 6mt swap! So the initial creation of the bracket and assembly was $150 the bracket took a little bit of time to fabricate and several attempts. Now that I have dimension locked in the waterjet I can crank these out no problem. For example assembly with bracket, lines, and clamps is $75, walbro-95x2 hdydramat-160x2 = stage3 $580
    Stage2 assembly -50, walbro x1-95, hydramat x1-160 = stage2 $306
    Keep in mind the increase in flow without the need for a venturi!

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    Used Fuel Pump Assembly - $50 (car-part.com)
    Walbro pumps (w/elec. connectors) - $95/piece (ebay)
    Holley Hydramat 16-111 - $160/piece (summit racing)
    Hobbs Switch w/harness - $50 (FB group buy)
    Lockring removal tool - $12 (amazon.com)
    07Tundra mods and assembly ~ $150 (will let @07Tundra chime in on this as he is now getting the parts waterjet cut, etc.)

    So all in, I ended up putting in about $775 total into this project. When I was shopping around, the best deal I could find for something similar, but without the dual Hydramats, would have cost me ~$790.

    Also, I was asked this else where but its probably a good idea to mention it here...in order for this to work the bottom of the bucket assembly has to be removed and modified to accept the pumps and the Hydramats. The bucket no longer performs as it did in the stock setup. Fuel is still returned inside of the parameters of the bucket but it is free to fall into the bottom of the tank and onto the hydramats. The modified unit is more of a bucket and bucketless hybrid.
    Great details from both of you, thanks.

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    You're quite welcome it's a lot of fun doing stuff like this and Tec was awesome to work with.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Great details from both of you, thanks.
    No problem!
    Its curious though that no one seems to be excited about this though. We just gave away the keys to the kingdom and no ones really pumped about it. We literally just told the world how to get parts and build your own monster fueling setup for the cost of some companies single walbro setup.

    Big props to 07Tundra for stepping up to figure this out for the community and not trying to turn this into a money making operation which he could have easily done.

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    4 out of 6 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    No problem!
    Its curious though that no one seems to be excited about this though. We just gave away the keys to the kingdom and no ones really pumped about it. We literally just told the world how to get parts and build your own monster fueling setup for the cost of some companies single walbro setup.
    Big props to 07Tundra for stepping up to figure this out for the community and not trying to turn this into a money making operation which he could have easily done.
    This is exactly why below, quoted from another thread, look at the mark up on the sensor why, because google charged him to look up a sensor or was it because of his R&D......LMAO
    Don't get it twisted i believe in supporting vendors too but come on taking a product from google and adding it to your inventory and marking it up like you invented the damn thing lol......ignorance is bliss the sensor is a little over 80 bucks!
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dyezak Click here to enlarge
    Conti sensor ordered from Fuel-IT!!!
    [QUOTE=Tony@VargasTurboTech;760292]LOL. You mean you just paid $117.95 plus shipping for this sensor?

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    I just got -9 rep lol the truth hurts so be it, it's one thing to make money and another to rip people off. But hey people don't care I guess its ok.

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    No problem!
    Its curious though that no one seems to be excited about this though. We just gave away the keys to the kingdom and no ones really pumped about it. We literally just told the world how to get parts and build your own monster fueling setup for the cost of some companies single walbro setup.
    Maybe people don't understand?

  21. #21
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    I'm in the UK and I could do with this. How do I get the wiring? The hobbs switch, connectors etc. Do you buy it or just make it?
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.75@127 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, fuel-it stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  22. #22
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AWSAWS Click here to enlarge
    I'm in the UK and I could do with this. How do I get the wiring? The hobbs switch, connectors etc. Do you buy it or just make it?
    @TEC

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AWSAWS Click here to enlarge
    I'm in the UK and I could do with this. How do I get the wiring? The hobbs switch, connectors etc. Do you buy it or just make it?
    I'm not sure what your equivalent stores are in the UK but if you have something like Summit Racing there you should be able to source most of the parts. A used bucket if you don't want to use your own can be sourced through a junkyard.

    The Hobbs switch is nothing special either. You should be able to get one online. There are multiple websites on how to build a harness. All it consists of is a relay, 30 amp fuse, wire and ring connectors.

    As for mods to the bucket, you would need to work out something with 07 Tundra (Jose).

    Your other option would be to bribe Jose into getting all the parts for you and sending you an assembled unit.

  24. #24
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by TEC Click here to enlarge
    I'm not sure what your equivalent stores are in the UK but if you have something like Summit Racing there you should be able to source most of the parts. A used bucket if you don't want to use your own can be sourced through a junkyard.
    The Hobbs switch is nothing special either. You should be able to get one online. There are multiple websites on how to build a harness. All it consists of is a relay, 30 amp fuse, wire and ring connectors.

    As for mods to the bucket, you would need to work out something with 07 Tundra (Jose).

    Your other option would be to bribe Jose into getting all the parts for you and sending you an assembled unit.
    Cool.

    I've got a spare fuel pump from when I bought a fuel it stage 2. I am thinking I could just mod the stage 2 though as it already contains one walbro, and make up the wiring bit myself.

    Is the hobbs regulating the pressure? I see some fuel pump kits talking about pressure regulators. I don't want to come off the gas(or similar) and have a fuel pressure spike blow up my fuel lines. Are upgraded fuel lines necessary?

    I'd need to know the hobbs switch type. Normally off I guess, What psi range and current rating?

    Thanks
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.
    11.75@127 on GCs.
    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, fuel-it stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  25. #25
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Maybe people don't understand?
    i thnik for most of the people here is easier to buy something already tested and bolt-on rather than spending time in a garage and making your own at lower cost. some are enthusiastic, some not, some just dont have time to go with all of that stuff.

    TEC did a good job and hopefully his efforts will not leave unattended.
    YOU CAN!

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