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  1. #1
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    CSF Radiator and Oil Cooler Installed

    Not sure if you guys have experienced limp mode from high water and oil temps, but I often do between track and spirited canyon driving.
    Got these pieces from CSF and am really impressed by the quality and packaging, especially for the price. Not sure if the N54 community is aware, but if you've got an OEM oil cooler, you can use the CSF E9x m3 trans cooler as a direct drop-in replacement. It's been tested to flow 30% more than the factory unit and requires no modification. My oil temps have been rock solid during hard driving so far, which is awesome. I'll be headed to the track soon and can take some logs of both coolant and oil temps.
    The radiator is way lighter than the stock unit. Good welds for aluminum, and with 105k on my car, it was a good time to replace the factory unit. Radiator went in with zero fitment issues and the factory fan mounted up perfectly. Oil cooler retails for $599, part number 8042 - http://csfrace.com/bmw-radiator-splash/
    Radiator retails for $569, part number 8046, fits automatic cars as well.
    Some quick photos I snapped of the radiator, and a shot of the oil cooler. Will report back with some hard data and further impressions. Interested to see and hear what everyone else is successfully running too.
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  2. #2
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    Awesome info
    Just so I'm clear, the M3 trans cooler is a direct replacement for the N54 oil cooler?

    Edit: I've been running the radiator for over a year. Remember the DME controls the coolant temp and the radiator will show it's strength in how quickly it brings the temps back in line after pushing the car for extended periods. Don't expect normal data to show anything different then what you have been seeing after a few pulls or in stop and go situations.
    Last edited by R.G.; 12-18-2016 at 12:16 AM.
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

    Click here to enlarge

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    That looks like a very nicely made piece. Did you have to top off the oil to make up for a larger oil cooler volume?

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    OP, do you have upgraded stock location inlets by any chance? I've thought for a while the CSF radiator would be a nice upgrade but I have silicone inlets and I'm concerned the added thickness of the CSF radiator might push them too close to the pulley.

  5. #5
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    interesting thanks for sharing.

    Did you have to make any modifications whatsoever to fit the oil cooler?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw Click here to enlarge
    OP, do you have upgraded stock location inlets by any chance? I've thought for a while the CSF radiator would be a nice upgrade but I have silicone inlets and I'm concerned the added thickness of the CSF radiator might push them too close to the pulley.

    I ran the Vargas inlets with the CSF AT radiator before going ST with no issues.
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw Click here to enlarge
    OP, do you have upgraded stock location inlets by any chance? I've thought for a while the CSF radiator would be a nice upgrade but I have silicone inlets and I'm concerned the added thickness of the CSF radiator might push them too close to the pulley.
    I had to adjust things to get my front inlet to fit after I put the CSF in my car. I just slightly ovaled the inlet and it's been fine but it is tight with the extra rad thickness.
    Chris - VTT Forum Representative
    Chris@Vargasturbo.com
    www.Vargasturbo.com
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    I have been using the CSF radiator for a year now and summer temperatures never rise over ~235 degrees during drag strip, auto x, or 3-4-5th gear pulls. My cold weather experiences (MT winter) are a bit rough as the car does take about twice the time to warm up. I experience over-cooling while operating at highway speeds with the heater on, and I end up with an error code stating the thermostat is jammed open. I replaced the thermostat and water pump this summer and am running in the same problem now that the outside temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. I have a new expansion tank (coolant temp. sensor) on the way to see if that is the issue. If not, my OEM radiator will go in to see if that solves the problem. Moving to the desert is also an option if this polar vortex business keeps up.

    Car is a 2011 N55.
    Last edited by MacE90; 12-19-2016 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Car info

  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R.G. Click here to enlarge
    Awesome info
    Just so I'm clear, the M3 trans cooler is a direct replacement for the N54 oil cooler?
    Yessir, direct drop in replacement. You're correct!

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    I have similar setup. CSF radiator and PPK aux radiator. But the M3 trans cooler from CSF won't be enough for actual track use, given it is only 30% increase in capacity. I have the Dinan oil cooler, which is 4x increase over stock, and my oil temp can creep up to 260-270F on a hot day at the track.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MacE90 Click here to enlarge
    I have been using the CSF radiator for a year now and summer temperatures never rise over ~235 degrees during drag strip, auto x, or 3-4-5th gear pulls. My cold weather experiences (MT winter) are a bit rough as the car does take about twice the time to warm up. I experience over-cooling while operating at highway speeds with the heater on, and I end up with an error code stating the thermostat is jammed open. I replaced the thermostat and water pump this summer and am running in the same problem now that the outside temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. I have a new expansion tank (coolant temp. sensor) on the way to see if that is the issue. If not, my OEM radiator will go in to see if that solves the problem. Moving to the desert is also an option if this polar vortex business keeps up.
    Good to know. It was -25*C here yesterday. In that weather it takes about 30 minutes for the oil temperature to stabilize so I wonder how long it would take with an upgraded radiator. Have you ever considered putting something on front of the the rad in colder months so it warms up faster or reaches a higher stable temperature?

    It's kind of ghetto but it was a pretty common thing here when I was younger on vehicles that didn't have great heaters.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw Click here to enlarge
    Good to know. It was -25*C here yesterday. In that weather it takes about 30 minutes for the oil temperature to stabilize so I wonder how long it would take with an upgraded radiator. Have you ever considered putting something on front of the the rad in colder months so it warms up faster or reaches a higher stable temperature?

    It's kind of ghetto but it was a pretty common thing here when I was younger on vehicles that didn't have great heaters.
    I was reading on n54tech and noticed a thread about a guy having CANbus and heater issues. His problem occurred because his jb4 connect kit was powered from the 12v connection used by the jb4. I checked out my setup and noticed I am also running my bt jb4 connect kit from the 12v source. I switched it over to a hot wire in the wire loom and it seems my cooling system is back to normal function. Csf radiator functioned perfectly today on the highway and in town.

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon Click here to enlarge
    That looks like a very nicely made piece.
    That's what I was thinking. It looks really good.

    But, this guy also is good at taking pics.

  14. #14
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    The rad is a solid piece but for the price of the oil cooler you can run dual well Seatrabs
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    That's what I was thinking. It looks really good.
    But, this guy also is good at taking pics.
    Only highlighting what's already there! It really is a nice piece. I wouldn't have taken the pictures if I thought it sucked.

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    6 out of 6 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cloud9blue Click here to enlarge
    I have similar setup. CSF radiator and PPK aux radiator. But the M3 trans cooler from CSF won't be enough for actual track use, given it is only 30% increase in capacity. I have the Dinan oil cooler, which is 4x increase over stock, and my oil temp can creep up to 260-270F on a hot day at the track.
    I'm the owner of CSF - just want to bring light ot the fact that not all cores are created equal. The core that we've used for our oil cooler is a micro-tube with 10 channels in each tube - this is super high efficiency, and this is the reason we are able to get such good performance out of a drop-in fit cooler.
    We have lab data to back up the heat transfer performance. Don't always be sucked into thinking that because a unit has a bigger core it must be more efficient. Not all cores are created equal.

    Just my .02
    Last edited by Ravi_CSF; 12-29-2016 at 02:41 AM. Reason: spelling

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ravi_CSF Click here to enlarge
    I'm the owner of CSF - just want to bring light ot the fact that not all cores are created equal. The core that we've used for our oil cooler is a micro-tube with 10 channels in each tube - this is super high efficiency, and this is the reason we are able to get such good performance out of a drop-in fit cooler.
    We have lab data to back up the heat transfer performance. Don't always be sucked into thinking that because a unit has a bigger core it must be more efficient. Not all cores are created equal.

    Just my .02
    Your clarification is appreciated.

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ravi_CSF Click here to enlarge
    I'm the owner of CSF - just want to bring light ot the fact that not all cores are created equal. The core that we've used for our oil cooler is a micro-tube with 10 channels in each tube - this is super high efficiency, and this is the reason we are able to get such good performance out of a drop-in fit cooler.
    We have lab data to back up the heat transfer performance. Don't always be sucked into thinking that because a unit has a bigger core it must be more efficient. Not all cores are created equal.

    Just my .02
    Ravi would you consider making a stock thickness version of the radiator? I run aftermarket inlets and upgraded oil coolers so space is at a BIG premium up front. I need a replacement radiator as we speak and the thickness issue is what's holding me back from pulling the trigger on a CSF.
    2007 335i E90 | MMP Stage 3 Turbos | MMP Inlets | E-Fab/MMP Prototype Stainless Outlets | BQ Tuning Custom Flash | Fuel-It Stg 2 LPFP | AR Design DP's | AD-E 1000HP FMIC | DCI | VRSF CP | Forge DV's | ER Competition Dual Oil Coolers | MFactory LSD | Koni Yellow's | Eibach Pro Kit | M3 Control Arms | Whiteline Rear SF Inserts | AG M359's + PSS's | Full LCI M-Sport Conversion | CSL Trunk Lid | M3 Sideskirts

  19. #19
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    Yeah, I would likely purchase as well with stock thickness. I also have aftermarket inlets.

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    An other vote for stock size upgrade. N55s seem to be getting an increasing amount of leaks at the stock endtanks.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sirdaft1 Click here to enlarge
    Ravi would you consider making a stock thickness version of the radiator? I run aftermarket inlets and upgraded oil coolers so space is at a BIG premium up front. I need a replacement radiator as we speak and the thickness issue is what's holding me back from pulling the trigger on a CSF.
    This radiator is my #1 seller - Respectfully, I'm not trying to rock the boat or cause confuison with the market. A stock size radiator wwont fix the over-heating issues and that's why we make our radiator bigger. A stock radiator would only be a 1-row, where our high performance version is a 2-row.

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    Radiator is the not the issue here when it comes to space and fitment. It is the fan housing that is taking most of the space. Would be great if someone could make a more efficient but slimmer radiator fan like the 335is ones...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cloud9blue Click here to enlarge
    Radiator is the not the issue here when it comes to space and fitment. It is the fan housing that is taking most of the space. Would be great if someone could make a more efficient but slimmer radiator fan like the 335is ones...
    If the 335is fan is slimmer, why not just run it? Are they unreasonably expensive?
    Stuff n thangs

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ravi_CSF Click here to enlarge
    This radiator is my #1 seller - Respectfully, I'm not trying to rock the boat or cause confuison with the market. A stock size radiator wwont fix the over-heating issues and that's why we make our radiator bigger. A stock radiator would only be a 1-row, where our high performance version is a 2-row.
    Makes sense. It's just so damn tight up there with silicone inlets.

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    The 335IS fans are unreasonably expensive in my opinion. 800 is the best I've seen for a used IS fan. The fan however is significantly better because of its higher rate of flow. The IS fan is rated at 850w vs the non IS fan at 600w. When I did the BMW power package on my e92 and installed the fan I honestly did not notice any difference in the shroud at all. I'm not saying there isn't, I'm just saying if there is, its very minimal.

    BTW: I had a CSF radiator on my e92, with the IS fan, and MMP inlets and I still had fitment issues. I think its just the nature of the beast. CSF radiator was hands down one of the best investments I made in that car.

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