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  1. #1
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    Reset all adaptations insight / help

    Ok, so were testing some stuff out and had to reset all adaptations to make sure everything would learn properly. After the reset, every time I restart the car, the idle hunts up and down with no throttle control until I use the AP to reset the codes then the idle drops back to normal and I have throttle control again. We are also getting DSC and ABS malfunction warnings after the reset, just wanting some insight from others who have reset all adaptations on if this is normal behavior or not, and how long it takes for the car to learn and get back to normal.. THANKS guys.

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    Every blue moon when I do a reset the rad fan will go nuts and I’ll have to restart the car, clear the codes, etc. Power delivery is lumpy for a block or two as well, but it gets sorted fairly quickly. I’ve never had that type of idling issue though…that’s odd. Sorry I can’t be more helpful, have never experienced that.
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    Tony did you pull the key out of the ignition after your reset everything??? If you don't do that it will cause the RPM to jump up and down

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by triggz Click here to enlarge
    Tony did you pull the key out of the ignition after your reset everything??? If you don't do that it will cause the RPM to jump up and down
    I can't remember the last time the key was actually in the ignition. I am pretty sure this doesn't have to do with the key. We are trying some very different things on the car, I think that's what is causing it to freak out. Just trying to eliminate the things that are normal with a reset and which aren't so I know what to focus on.

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    Same thing happens to me after resetting adaptions. I reset them and then reflash with the Cobb AP and I'm good to go!
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    I'm unaware of what tune or flash you have on the car. But I would do a reflash of w/e it had.
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    Thank! That is the info I need. I will reflash it right now.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    after adaptation reset:
    30sec key off
    30sec key on/engine off
    30sec key off
    30sec key on/engine off
    start car.
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    Cool, I will reset them again, do this, and reflash my cobb map. Thanks guys for the help!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Cool, I will reset them again, do this, and reflash my cobb map. Thanks guys for the help!
    If that doesn't work then maybe another issue non related to tuning, probably hardware etc.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    after adaptation reset:
    30sec key off
    30sec key on/engine off
    30sec key off
    30sec key on/engine off
    start car.

    Is this different at all for cars with comfort access? Thanks!

  13. #13
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    yea- dont use comfort access? :shrugs:
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    yea- dont use comfort access? :shrugs:
    lol no kidding. I was asking because I noted some finicky behavior when performing the key on/off scenarios and wondered if the comfort access was in any way thwarting me when I key out by still thinking there was a (virtual) key in.

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    Everything seems to have settled down, except now I have the crazy fan. I will address that with another reset I guess??

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Everything seems to have settled down, except now I have the crazy fan. I will address that with another reset I guess??
    That is known to happen sometimes after flashing. I usually shut the car off and reflash again, generally takes care of it.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Everything seems to have settled down, except now I have the crazy fan. I will address that with another reset I guess??
    This can also happen if your trims are too far out of whack...it'll be followed up by the flat lining of your trims, AFR's, and your LPFP will run at 100% duty cycle. Can't remember the codes off hand....mixture control...SES light.....

    Log it...let's see Click here to enlarge

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    ^edit: it dawned on me I said trims when I meant to say "scalars" are too far out of whack.

    I'll elaborate a bit....

    When loading a new map, if the scalar is too far out of adjustment (especially high), the car will run fine for a minute because it's in open loop. However the minute it goes closed loop if you're watching the trims...they max out (negative in that case) and if you're watching the AFR's they'll go rich, the car will sputter, the LPFP will go 100% DC, and the fan will turn on, and sometimes the half engine light. I suspect some times people will just reset and drive the car (I've read of cases that I suspect this) and obviously use more fuel...the car runs rough for a bit, but then they say it's fine after a while. What I think is happening is that in doing so...their LTFT's are adjusting and so basically the car compensates for the poor fuel scalar. Definitely not ideal and people don't really see it because virtually nobody logs at idle and/or cruise. When running high percentages of Ethanol...this gets even more finicky and apparent especially as the car gets hot.

    Since it doesn't sound like you're driving it...this may or may not be the case...but if nothing else it may offer some insight to others.

    Enough rambling...still want to see logs Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SteveAZ Click here to enlarge
    still want to see logs
    Click here to enlarge

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    Can I rent a banner so this gif is on every page?

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    Click here to enlarge I'd rep ya if I could.....at least it wasn't the "other log"

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    After the DME Reset (always last step), you MUST wait ~5 sec. If its perfectly quiet, you can actually hear something make a noise and then settle down after that time. It only took me once or twice to learn that if I didnt wait, the rad fan would come on full blast as soon as the car was started and all sorts of weird symptoms would crop up.

  23. #23
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    pedal reset for throttle learning procedure fixes this for me (not pos of name) ... similar to what alex posted but mine included pressing the pedal down 7 times ... but whats odd is how this sometimes happens and sometimes doesnt... i would flash a cobb file and every so often it would surge... do the procedure and it would stop...

    hasnt happened in ages so i forget details but someone of google it for you man could prob help me out here
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135Hoser Click here to enlarge
    Can I rent a banner so this gif is on every page?
    You sure can.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    After the DME Reset (always last step), you MUST wait ~5 sec. If its perfectly quiet, you can actually hear something make a noise and then settle down after that time. It only took me once or twice to learn that if I didnt wait, the rad fan would come on full blast as soon as the car was started and all sorts of weird symptoms would crop up.
    I second this. No pedal response and weird oscillating revs means the DME never reset after adaptations were cleared. Sleep or Restart the DME (or technically, you could just wait 10 mins and let the car do it by itself), and presto.... no more pants $#@!ting that you just bricked a DME.

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