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Thread: This N54 is HOT! Literally....

              
  1. #1
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    This N54 is HOT! Literally....

    Hello All,
    Just wondering if my engine temps are normal. It was 85*F today and after driving for a bit, the car was idling around 240*F. The car seems to never go past 250*F (even after several 3rd/4th pulls). My buddy with a 300zxTT couldnt believe how hot my oil was getting, but ive come to accept that this is normal with the N54?

    What would you assume to be the normal operating range for this engine, realistically? 200-250*F? I live in Florida, so its always hot Click here to enlarge When is the temperature dangerous? Past 250? I just seem to ALWAYS get to 230-240 really quick, and stick to that temperature. Two pulls and im at 245*F. Never go past 250, but rarely drop below 220-230-ish.

    Just afraid that my water pump is pooping out on me Click here to enlarge

    Thanks,
    E

    PS- On a side note, when it was idling near 240*F the engine nearly stalled itself, dropped to about 300 RPM and then jumped to 1,500RPM to compensate, then the Procede acted like it was restarted and showed me my current map (flashed up to Map 2). Didnt happen again.
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    those oil temps are normal.. does your car have a factory oil cooler?

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    and your water pump would have nothing to do with oil temps

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdeterman Click here to enlarge
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    those oil temps are normal.. does your car have a factory oil cooler?
    I believe so. In the front-passenger side wheel well? The radiator-esque silver thing with the plastic slits?

    I havent installed my DPs yet. Will these drop the temps by allowing less back-pressure? A local shop told me that, but i was skeptical... lol
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    Normal oil temps man. Nothing to worry about.
    John 3:16


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    Time for some upgraded coolers?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by leo985i Click here to enlarge
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    Normal oil temps man. Nothing to worry about.
    Thanks a ton. I always thought they were fine, but he seemed to think that it was extremely hot compared to his 300zx.... Whatever. Thanks a ton everyone, +Reps to all.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    Time for some upgraded coolers?
    I think a FMIC/DCI/meth kit are next Click here to enlarge A FMIC would chill down my IATs, but would it help the engine temps as a whole?
    Click here to enlarge

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    Well, this engine does run hotter than anything else I have seen out there lol.
    John 3:16


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    Sticky can you hand out +Rep to @rdeterman and @leo985i ? I cant +Rep anymore today....sigh....
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    Mine has hit 270 during autocross a couple times and was fine in between runs. In the summer I'm ways sitting at 240.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
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    Sticky can you hand out +Rep to @rdeterman and @leo985i ? I cant +Rep anymore today....sigh....
    What am I, the rep fairy?

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    Trust me...you'll KNOW when your water pump takes a $#@! on you Click here to enlarge
    PERFORMANCE: Cobb AP \ JB4 \ DCI \ AR Downpipes \ CX FMIC \ ER Chargepipe \ Synapse BOV \ KW V2 \ Muffler Delete \ CDV \ ZHP Shifter \ Cyba Scoops
    FUN: LC Lemans 19" \ M3 Front \ Mtech Rear \ JL 10W6 \ ModMyNav \ V1 Hardwired \ LUX H8 \ Gloss Black Trim \ Cyba Quads \ Cyba Mtech Diffuser

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
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    Thanks a ton. I always thought they were fine, but he seemed to think that it was extremely hot compared to his 300zx.... Whatever. Thanks a ton everyone, +Reps to all.



    I think a FMIC/DCI/meth kit are next Click here to enlarge A FMIC would chill down my IATs, but would it help the engine temps as a whole?
    Regarding IAT (not oil temps): Meth would be the most effective choice for heat suppression and power since your in a hot climate like Florida (im in Cali)....but if your not a "meth head" then go for the FMIC instead...DCI first will actually cause higher IAT than stock intake in most situations
    PERFORMANCE: Cobb AP \ JB4 \ DCI \ AR Downpipes \ CX FMIC \ ER Chargepipe \ Synapse BOV \ KW V2 \ Muffler Delete \ CDV \ ZHP Shifter \ Cyba Scoops
    FUN: LC Lemans 19" \ M3 Front \ Mtech Rear \ JL 10W6 \ ModMyNav \ V1 Hardwired \ LUX H8 \ Gloss Black Trim \ Cyba Quads \ Cyba Mtech Diffuser

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by leo985i Click here to enlarge
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    Well, this engine does run hotter than anything else I have seen out there lol.
    True that haha

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by gary88 Click here to enlarge
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    Mine has hit 270 during autocross a couple times and was fine in between runs. In the summer I'm ways sitting at 240.
    Interesting. Mine has yet to break the 250*F barrier, but thats just with 4 or 5 pulls back to back. Autocrossing is hard on the engine.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    What am I, the rep fairy?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rooringhusky Click here to enlarge
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    Trust me...you'll KNOW when your water pump takes a $#@! on you Click here to enlarge
    Hahaha cant wait for that
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rooringhusky Click here to enlarge
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    Regarding IAT (not oil temps): Meth would be the most effective choice for heat suppression and power since your in a hot climate like Florida (im in Cali)....but if your not a "meth head" then go for the FMIC instead...DCI first will actually cause higher IAT than stock intake in most situations
    Thats what ive been afraid of, but im not sure if a CAI is really what i need. Almost thinking a drop-in filter is the be-all-end-all for stock turbos right now...
    Click here to enlarge

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    The oil temps are completely normal. They are taken in the oil pan(hottest point in the system), where as on most cars they are taken post oil cooler(if equipped or in a much cooler location if not.)

    No performance engine bolt-on will reduce oil temps, the fact is the more power you make the more heat you generate and the more heat the oil has to transfer.

    As far as IATs are concerned meth is by far the most effective(e85 has a tremendous cooling effect that can be tuned to take advantage of but the TMAP sensor will never see it so it's near impossible to know how much that effect actually Is.)
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
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    Thats what ive been afraid of, but im not sure if a CAI is really what i need. Almost thinking a drop-in filter is the be-all-end-all for stock turbos right now...
    Drop in filter is a good idea for the time being...but you will eventually want to limit some of the flow restrictions through the stock box once your start pushing a more aggresive tune...In order to reduce the stress on the turbos as much as you can//

    DCI has its pros and cons...More air flow, less restriction, smaller air path at the cost of heat soak....But if you have Meth/FMIC by that point then you will be able to "negate" the cons of DCI with the Meth/FMIC...Just a suggestion

    Im thinking since you already have downpipes go this path:

    Downpipes > Meth > DCI > FMIC

    What do you think?
    PERFORMANCE: Cobb AP \ JB4 \ DCI \ AR Downpipes \ CX FMIC \ ER Chargepipe \ Synapse BOV \ KW V2 \ Muffler Delete \ CDV \ ZHP Shifter \ Cyba Scoops
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    230-250 is normal. 260 is getting iffy & IIRC, Limp Mode gets triggered at 270
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
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    Personally, I would go with a FMIC before anything else on a N54. The stock intercooler is simply not capable at stock power levels let alone anything you get from a tune. That being said, these guys are right... none of this will help oil temps.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
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    The oil temps are completely normal. They are taken in the oil pan(hottest point in the system), where as on most cars they are taken post oil cooler(if equipped or in a much cooler location if not.)

    No performance engine bolt-on will reduce oil temps, the fact is the more power you make the more heat you generate and the more heat the oil has to transfer.

    As far as IATs are concerned meth is by far the most effective(e85 has a tremendous cooling effect that can be tuned to take advantage of but the TMAP sensor will never see it so it's near impossible to know how much that effect actually Is.)
    Thanks for the info. E85 is rather far away from me (45 mins), and i really dont want to deal with 55 gallon drums. The next performance mod ill get will be either meth or FMIC Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rooringhusky Click here to enlarge
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    Drop in filter is a good idea for the time being...but you will eventually want to limit some of the flow restrictions through the stock box once your start pushing a more aggresive tune...In order to reduce the stress on the turbos as much as you can//

    DCI has its pros and cons...More air flow, less restriction, smaller air path at the cost of heat soak....But if you have Meth/FMIC by that point then you will be able to "negate" the cons of DCI with the Meth/FMIC...Just a suggestion

    Im thinking since you already have downpipes go this path:

    Downpipes > Meth > DCI > FMIC

    What do you think?
    Thanks for the technical description as to why the readings are so high, makes a lot more sense now. What intake would you recommend for a car without meth? With meth?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
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    230-250 is normal. 260 is getting iffy & IIRC, Limp Mode gets triggered at 270
    Thanks!

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Josh@Cobb Click here to enlarge
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    Personally, I would go with a FMIC before anything else on a N54. The stock intercooler is simply not capable at stock power levels let alone anything you get from a tune. That being said, these guys are right... none of this will help oil temps.
    What FMIC would you recommend? I know Helix makes a good option, but its rather expensive.
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
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    What FMIC would you recommend? I know Helix makes a good option, but its rather expensive.
    Anything is better than stock. If you want some really good and cheap, go for the bigtom (Cxracing I believe) Intercooler, but you'll need to cut a lot. I personally run the ETS 5" intercooler which is good enough, and not cutting required.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by leo985i Click here to enlarge
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    Anything is better than stock. If you want some really good and cheap, go for the bigtom (Cxracing I believe) Intercooler, but you'll need to cut a lot. I personally run the ETS 5" intercooler which is good enough, and not cutting required.
    I will look into this. I prefer cutting and wasting time rather than money Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    ETS 5" isn't all that great. With that said, I still have one. Click here to enlarge

    But I've seen my oil temps creep a hair past 250 once in my life, but that was a 40-160 mph run.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
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    230-250 is normal. 260 is getting iffy & IIRC, Limp Mode gets triggered at 270
    You'll get power loss above 270, but limp mode isn't triggered until 304 IIRC.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    What am I, the rep fairy?


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