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Thread: Manual Transmission Fluid

              
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    Manual Transmission Fluid

    I see D4 and D6ATF are popular. What do people recommend? Do non-oem fluids make this box a little smoother?

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    People on E90 rave about D4 & D6. I think I'm personally going to go with D6 next spring. LT3 lost the "nice" touch within a year or so.

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    D4 and D6 are automatic transmission fluids. Maybe I missed something.

    D6 and the ZF 6HP21 transmission in the 335 seem to be a good match. If you look, the D6 is specified for the 21's bigger brother, the 6HP26. The D6 is a low viscosity, shear stable fluid just like the newer, thinner high efficiency ATFs like Lifeguard 6.

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    I'm using gm syncromesh, definately a bit smoother than the factory stuff.
    2007 BMW 335i 6MT / Alpine Weiss

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    I remember reading once that doing a transmission fluid change yourself could void your drivetrain warranty. Most people on this forum won't care, but does anyone know if there's any validity to this?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trufus Click here to enlarge
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    I remember reading once that doing a transmission fluid change yourself could void your drivetrain warranty. Most people on this forum won't care, but does anyone know if there's any validity to this?
    Pretty sure all the mods voided that a long time ago.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
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    D4 and D6 are automatic transmission fluids. Maybe I missed something.

    D6 and the ZF 6HP21 transmission in the 335 seem to be a good match. If you look, the D6 is specified for the 21's bigger brother, the 6HP26. The D6 is a low viscosity, shear stable fluid just like the newer, thinner high efficiency ATFs like Lifeguard 6.
    Almost all modern manual tranmissions use ATF.

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    I use D4 (I think. I used the thicker of the two) in mine. I honestly didn't notice any difference. My fluid came out looking brand new at 55k.

    Authorized Dealer of: BMS, Evolution Racewerks, ETS, and more

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    Almost all modern manual tranmissions use ATF.
    I did not know that, but it does make sense.

    The D4 page indicates that it is suitable for manual transmissions such as those in late model BMWs. The D6 page says it satisfies API 70, 75 and 80w gear oil specs. Both D4 and D6 claim GL-4, which is also a gear oil spec. I'd use the D4 because it is a tad thicker.

    Also, Redline themselves indicate that the D4 is a replacement for Shell M1375.4, which is the spec for the ZF six speed in the 335. So it seems what I wrote above concerning the D6 in the ZF 6HP21 is incorrect. This doesn't pertain directly to your question, but I wanted to correct my previous statement.

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    I've been using d4 since 2000k no issues im at 45k now. I change my trans fluid every 30k also
    ground control coilovers/wavetrac lsd/ full m3 suspension/delrin bushings/ megan racing toe and camber arms/bmw oem performance carbon fiber front lip and rear deck spoiler/m3 strut brace/ecs SS brakelines/CPE dci's, charge pipe, catless dp, fmic/bms OCC/tuningtechfs custom tune/defiv diff lockdownkit,rbpcv valve.

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    Interesting, redline advises the D6 which is 15% thinner than D4. I have yet to run across someone running D6. I am primarily interested in it vs D4 for better economy. I wonder if the thinner fluid will shift smoothly though.

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    I'm guessing if Redline officially recommends D6 in the manuals, it will work fine.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    Pretty sure all the mods voided that a long time ago.
    Obviously. I was thinking more of the DIYer that doesn't really care for more power. Everyone knows the "lifetime" fluids are BS. Doesn't really make sense that the warranty would be void if you replace the fluid with something that meets the spec.

    Someone could try both D4 and D6 for a couple thousand miles and report back? Consensus in everything I've read is that it doesn't really matter and it comes down to personal preference.

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    no matter what type of fluid the shift will still be notchy
    ground control coilovers/wavetrac lsd/ full m3 suspension/delrin bushings/ megan racing toe and camber arms/bmw oem performance carbon fiber front lip and rear deck spoiler/m3 strut brace/ecs SS brakelines/CPE dci's, charge pipe, catless dp, fmic/bms OCC/tuningtechfs custom tune/defiv diff lockdownkit,rbpcv valve.

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    I use Royal Purple Synchromax. I had to swap it out twice to get all the factory fluid out, but now it shifts very well and I don't miss 2nd anymore Click here to enlarge
    2010 e92 M3 Jet Black | DCT | ESS Tuned | Akrapovic Slip-on | Challenge X-pipe | AFE Intake | 18" Volk TE37SL | KW V3 Coilovers | RPI Scoops | Under Drive Pulley

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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    BMW MTF-LT-3 Vis at 100C, cSt: 6.1
    BMW MTF-LT-2 Vis at 100C, cSt: 7.5
    RL D6 ATF Vis at 100C, cSt: 6.4-6.1
    RL D4 ATF Vis at 100C, cSt: 7.5
    SWEPCO 201 Vis at 100C, cSt: 15.3
    (I have links for the above but not enough reps to post em so feel free to PM)

    My transmission (09/2006) had an LT2 stamp so I replaced with D4. Changed fluid at 45K (planing on sending it to black stone)...No more 2nd grind. And at 10.95 a bottle (you need 2) I plan on changing every 30k. Factory fluid was something like $60 from my dealership.

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    I've used RP Synchromax and Redline as replacements (3x 6MT BMWs). The lifetime fill always ends up having the best longevity and feel. RP is totally water after only a few thousand miles, Redline is close to the OEM fill but OEM really takes the cake as far as 'slipperiness' and 'longevity' are concerned.

    RP Synchromax does feel absolutely glorious, however. Use it if you plan to replace every 2-3k or after every race Click here to enlarge
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Where do you live? I use D6 ATF for a year round.. If you live up here you can use D4 in the summer if you track a lot/autox whatever and switch to D6 in the winter.. but D6 year round should work well.

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    I also use the redline D6 ATF (RED-30704)

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bimmerocious Click here to enlarge
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    I also use the redline D6 ATF (RED-30704)
    How is the shift vs stock?

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    I would like to know this aswell. I'm at 41k miles and want to get my fluid changed soon. Does anyone have any experience with the Motul stuff?
    John 3:16


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nafoo Click here to enlarge
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    I use Royal Purple Synchromax. I had to swap it out twice to get all the factory fluid out, but now it shifts very well and I don't miss 2nd anymore Click here to enlarge
    I had an 08 E90 335xi and my bud in Colorado had an 08 E92 335xi and both of us had terrible performance with the 1-2 shift under WOT. Most of the time it was like the 2nd gear synchro was beat and it was that way for me since the day I leased the car from new off the dealer lot.

    I tried a UUC shifter and royal purple synchromax and both together helped slightly but honestly not very much. The 1-2 shift was next to impossible to hit under WOT.

    About a year ago I had an opportunity to drive an E92 335i that was an 08 or 09 and I shifted the hell out of it- the 1-2 shift was beautiful. So, in my limited experience, there appear to be some 335s that have a problem upshifting into 2nd gear under WOT and fluid and shifters don't really help.

    If you have a minor annoyance with shift smoothness, the non-OEM fluids will probably help. RP seemed decent to me and it was easy enough to change.

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    That 1-2 shift kills it for me as well. I've tried different fluids, as well as a bit harder UUC black tranny mounts but it didn't solve it.


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    I have the short shifter from the old 330i ZHP, UUC weighted knob, and Redline D6ATF, definitely a bit smoother than stock and better feel. I agree the 1-2 is still dirty in this car no getting around it. Maybe the full UUC DSSR shifter arm kit would make it better but thats a pain labor wise, any owners?

    Never gonna be as smooth as an s2000 or rsx which are like slicing through butter when I drove them.
    2007 AW/Beige E92 335i 6MT / JB4 G5 ISO E85 w BMS Cobb Flash / NLS/2STEP / RPi IC / BMS DCI / Raceland DPs / CMGS VC2 Trunk Meth(off) / ACT HD Clutch / NGK Step Colder Plugs / BMW SSK/UUC KNOB / M3 Front Control Arms / CF Trunk Lip/Mirror Covers / LED Angel Eyes / LCI Taillights / M-tech front lip / TR Motorsport(Enkei) MT1 18x8/18x9.5 / Hankook Ventus V12s 245/275

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