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  1. #51
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    Is cylinder 6 the typical lean cylinder? A few years back a good friend put a TT kit on his '03 Z06, lasted about two weeks before cylinder 6 $#@! the bed.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  2. #52
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    Here's whats very interesting... The car runs and idles just fine but it sounds off just slightly, if I go into boost she will run like and haul ass for sure. Its not smoking, setting off a CEL or anything so it could be electronic and I am assuming the worst here and committing financially to a forged bottom end right now. I am looking for built longblocks as well hoping to find someone with a unused motor on the cheap. If I could get a fully forged with new heads and a FAST with 14psi in unrestricted boost I would make near 750rwhp likely more. A man can only dream LOL
    We stay swingin...
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  3. #53
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    Are you certain it is cyl 6?
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

    I'm not racist, I hate everybody equally; especially fat people.


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  4. #54
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    hope all works out....vengeance needs its clique back when he comes out...lets just say hibernation ends today Click here to enlarge
    "We need to upgrade your skill before we upgrade your horsepower"

    -Tommy to Josh

  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sledgehammer Click here to enlarge
    Well that was short lived it appears the #6 cylinder has taken a leave of absence... Oh well time for a fully forged bottom end, reuse my stock top end setup with cleaned up heads & valve train. I will remove the restrictor plate from the blower and aim for 700rwhp, stay tuned!!!
    Wow really? Already?

    Pushed it too far on the stock bottom end or the tune?

  6. #56
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    didnt text back, but that sucks. As your alreday doing though, assume the worst, hope for the best.

    If it were me, i would probably shoot to rebuild capable of 800+ hp, even if my goal was 700 (which is still $#@!ing an insane amount)
    just so i know i have little to worry about

  7. #57
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    Stock bottom end LS1 motor survive well up to around 600rwhp... My friend has been running a like blower setup no cam at 550rwhp for 2yrs no issues. He also doesnt beat on it. The 99 motors had oil consumption issues and piston slap issues. My car has the consumption issue though minor so I checked it after every hard ride. That being said no telling if this was pre existing or just the boost and being beat on by me LOL. I put over 1000 miles on it in short order and drove it hard.

    I will be looking at options over the next week... The block will be plenty stout
    We stay swingin...
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  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ultimateendz Click here to enlarge
    hope all works out....vengeance needs its clique back when he comes out...lets just say hibernation ends today Click here to enlarge

    I agree hope the car is back on the road stronger than ever.
    In the mean time I will keep you company as long as I don't damage anything else in my rear end

  9. #59
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    So the plan is in place and work will commence later in the month once they have an opening to get my car in. I'm going with MCP Competition Engines and we will be adding in Forged Rods/Pistons while reusing the stock crank/block. I will have the heads lightly ported and cleaned up with new springs and use my current ECS cam since its brand new. I will also use the original intake on the car. This will suit my budget needs but will be more than capable of supporting 800rwhp once I go to real heads and a LS6 intake. My plain is to break in the motor on the current tune and then in early spring I will upgrade the fuel system, remove the restrictor on the blower for 14psi and of course retune the car. That should yield anywhere from 690-720rwhp depending on how well the heads flow, my goal is 700rwhp as it sits. So thats the plan I expect the car back late Nov or early Dec. No rush either way, weather will be changing so drives will be limited on the Nittos in cold temps...
    We stay swingin...
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  10. #60
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    With a built bottom end 700 whp should be child's play.

  11. #61
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    With a built bottom end 700 whp should be child's play.
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    We stay swingin...
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  12. #62
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    Well folks it will begin today, the car will arrive MCP for the removal of the driveline... After some discussion my plan is to port my stock heads, that should yield another 45-60rwhp. If I could find a set of 243 LS2/C5Z heads thats worth another 15hp on top of that. Otherwise we will get the motor in and tuned for the winter. The goal is to break in the motor with several heat cycles and 500+ miles.

    After speaking with the builder he told me 850rwhp is the limit of my combo for a street car and the way I play. My goal is now to make 800rwhp...

    That means I will need the following.

    1. 80lb Injectors my 60's wont cut it.
    2. Secondary fuel pump & supporting mods
    3. Better heads (243 LS2/C5Z style)
    4. Pulley change to hit 16-17psi of boost.

    If I can piece it together next year then I have a monster on my hands. I need to sit down an evaluate my goals, I dont know that I need a 800rwhp street car. The car is pretty light as it is and at 600rwhp its plenty fast. My gut says low 700's is plenty enough without major changes to the heads and injectors. I would only need a secondary pump and additional meth nozzle to operate comfortably in that range. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Not sure what to do never thought I would say its too much power LOL.
    We stay swingin...
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  13. #63
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    ID850's and a BAP
    "We need to upgrade your skill before we upgrade your horsepower"

    -Tommy to Josh

  14. #64
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    BAP is not enough... I have a BAP and 60's now, to be safe and have flow I need the 80's and a secondary pump for sure.
    We stay swingin...
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  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sledgehammer Click here to enlarge
    BAP is not enough... I have a BAP and 60's now, to be safe and have flow I need the 80's and a secondary pump for sure.
    Or maybe the pump from the LSA/LS9?....im flowing plenty..may be a cheap and easy alternative
    "We need to upgrade your skill before we upgrade your horsepower"

    -Tommy to Josh

  16. #66
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    build it so that the only thing you need to change later is injectors and boost to hit 800 hp

  17. #67
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    build it so that the only thing you need to change later is injectors and boost to hit 800 hp
    My thoughts exactly... I want to eliminate the BAP altogether and rely on the pumps to get the job done. The secondary pump is a more elegant and functional solution.
    We stay swingin...
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  18. #68
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    Why not have one pump that can do the job?
    "We need to upgrade your skill before we upgrade your horsepower"

    -Tommy to Josh

  19. #69
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sledgehammer Click here to enlarge
    My thoughts exactly... I want to eliminate the BAP altogether and rely on the pumps to get the job done. The secondary pump is a more elegant and functional solution.
    exactly.

  20. #70
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    Looks like a drop in LS7 pump may work...
    We stay swingin...
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  21. #71
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sledgehammer Click here to enlarge
    Looks like a drop in LS7 pump may work...

    looks like my suggestion worked
    "We need to upgrade your skill before we upgrade your horsepower"

    -Tommy to Josh

  22. #72
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    Its a different pump than the LSA/9 pump and its a temp solution as I need to use the BAP still. I dont want to use a BAP its a band aid solution. But for now it will give me some more room until I do a proper setup. Likely the RSI billet twin pump setup with upgrade wiring is my plan.
    We stay swingin...
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  23. #73
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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Just a quick update on the project after talking with my builder and tuner today.

    1. I will be adding in a Walbro 400lph fuel pump to work in conjunction with the Kenne Bell BAP
    2. I will be adding a set of Ported 317 truck heads. These have a 72cc dish thus yielding better compression on a stock motor. Nearly a full point lower will flowing as well 243 C5Z or LS2 heads.
    3. We will running a compression of 10.0:1 with spec ordered pistons. They will have a 10cc dish
    4. I am going to a custom ground cam that will be ideal for the blower & heads.

    The feeling is that the heads and cam alone should yield around 90-100whp more than I had already if I had only done this. Add in more boost somewhere in the 13-14psi range and my car should run strong as phuck. Wont be done till Jan and carefully broken in thru April. Now the dyno at this shop reads very low its a heartbreaker. If I crack 64-650whp on this dyno then its gonna get ugly. Cause on any other dyno it would read 7xxwhp. Stay tuned
    We stay swingin...
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  24. #74
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    sounds menacing. need a good place to strut its stuff.. like a roll on event Click here to enlarge

  25. #75
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    sounds menacing. need a good place to strut its stuff.. like a roll on event Click here to enlarge
    Or a really wide open stretch of highway...
    We stay swingin...
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