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  1. #176
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    Loving the build so far. That garage is to die for, very jealous.

  2. #177
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    Few more pictures today, its coming along he is just fixing a few imperfections then they're painting the undercarriage black then cut and buff and were done. Also the cage got certified for 6.50 in the 1/4 at up to 3,600lbs. Also got some new injectors to go with the fuel I'm going to use so I'm redoing the fuel rail, if anyone is interested in the bosch 2200cc injectors I originally purchased PM me they have never been run. We installed the nitrous and fixed up all the problems with the chase bays harness. Added a bunch of extra sensors on the Haltech and shock travel sensors and driveshaft rpm sensor on the racepak.

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  3. #178
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    Are those annular discharge nozzles, or conventional wet nozzles (90 degree spray angle)If they are conventional, they are pointing backwards.If they are annular discharge, they should be pointing in the direction of flow.Lastely, why not use the Haltech to control the nitrous fueling, or is it capable of this?Sorry to be so critical...but I'd like you to do well.Nice choice on the Moran injectors BTW.
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  4. #179
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Are those annular discharge nozzles, or conventional wet nozzles (90 degree spray angle)If they are conventional, they are pointing backwards.If they are annular discharge, they should be pointing in the direction of flow.Lastely, why not use the Haltech to control the nitrous fueling, or is it capable of this?Sorry to be so critical...but I'd like you to do well.Nice choice on the Moran injectors BTW.
    They are conventional but they are pointed right in the middle of the runner towards the head. Perhaps because they are mounted on the underside of the manifold it through you off cause I just looked at it again to confirm it was in fact pointing right(first time installing nitrous). Yeah the haltech will be controlling the nitrous. The morans made a big difference on a friends car so I decided to try them out. No problem with the questions.

  5. #180
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Jimefam Click here to enlarge
    They are conventional but they are pointed right in the middle of the runner towards the head. Perhaps because they are mounted on the underside of the manifold it through you off cause I just looked at it again to confirm it was in fact pointing right(first time installing nitrous). Yeah the haltech will be controlling the nitrous. The morans made a big difference on a friends car so I decided to try them out. No problem with the questions.
    Hey, as long as you are happy, that's all that counts.

    The reason I brought that up is that most "conventional" fogger nozzles have the fuel on the front. (Fuel inlet marks direction of spray) If the fuel discharge is a brass tube coming from the back side, and it passes through the nitrous bore, this make sense. NOS has many versions of nozzle including an older version known as the "B" nozzle that had machine tolerances with this fuel discharge tube. Basically, the nitrous would creep back through the nozzle, and pressurize the fuel system causing a reduction in flow. This of course caused enleanment...which got worse the bigger the fuel jet was added. (Less resistance to nitrous back-flow) The way to test this with your system, is to hook up the nitrous side, and run an AN line from the fuel distribution manifold into a bucket of water. If when you turn on the nitrous, you get bubbles in your water bucket...you've got a back-flow issue that needs addressing. Of course, there are those that simply say it's a matter of when if you do have one of these nozzles....but I'm thinking you probably have something much newer. (The "B" nozzles stopped being made a while ago)

    Another thing I would do is mount the solenoids directly to your distribution blocks....especially if you plan on pulsing. The larger the volume of distribution between the nitrous nozzles and the solenoids, the more enleanment on de-activation you will experience. What I mean there is that when you close the fuel solenoid, the fuel stops flowing. Basic hydraulics...the fuel in front of the nozzle has no pressure to push it any further. The nitrous in contrast, will continue to expand in the volume of distrubution lines act.....and you will continue to see nitrous bleed-down until the pressure equalizes. Now...this does "pull" a bit of fuel through the nozzle, but it's not proportionate to the nitrous volume. You can test my theory on the "bench" as well quite easily...as the bleed-down is quite audible.

    Hopefully my explanation makes sense. I am not the first one to discover these points, just passing on what I've learned from much more experienced people than myself.


    Oh...and most people don't know that O2 sensors don't measure unburned fuel. You can be blasting fuel through your engine that isn't burning at all...then changing to something that atomizes better picks up a bunch of power. The reason is that the power comes from the fuel of course, and you can't use the fuel if it's in big honking blobs. So that applies to your injectors...as well as your nitrous system fuel.

    If people saw the trickle of fuel coming out an nozzle spraying 50hp...they would be shocked. There is no spraying involved at all. They would be even more shocked if they knew the droplet size was 2-5 times what a good fuel injector can do. (When the nitrous is added that causes the fuel to tear apart down-stream)
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  6. #181
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    Sorry for the rant...I didn't realize it was that long until I posted.

    Love the pictures...thanks for posting.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Sorry for the rant...I didn't realize it was that long until I posted.

    Love the pictures...thanks for posting.
    On the contrary that is some great info and well explained so even someone with zero nitrous experience(myself) can understand it. I said conventional cause they came with a real basic sportsman kit lol but the spray definitely is going right at the center of the intake port on the head. I'm going to take you up on the suggestion to mount the solenoids on the blocks, it barely fits but it'll just clear when everything is mounted. As for the spray info, so basically your saying the fueling sucks on the nitrous nozzles? If i read that correctly that encourages me even more to do what I was thinking about last night and thats to swap out the fuel solenoid for another nitrous and just run it as a two stage dry kit and add the fueling in through the injectors with the haltech. I've now got plenty of headroom with the moran injectors and if some of the back to back dyno's i've seen are to be believed theres no better injectors for spray pattern than the morans(friend picked up 40hp on an 1100hp application). What say you?

  8. #183
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Jimefam Click here to enlarge
    On the contrary that is some great info and well explained so even someone with zero nitrous experience(myself) can understand it. I said conventional cause they came with a real basic sportsman kit lol but the spray definitely is going right at the center of the intake port on the head. I'm going to take you up on the suggestion to mount the solenoids on the blocks, it barely fits but it'll just clear when everything is mounted. As for the spray info, so basically your saying the fueling sucks on the nitrous nozzles? If i read that correctly that encourages me even more to do what I was thinking about last night and thats to swap out the fuel solenoid for another nitrous and just run it as a two stage dry kit and add the fueling in through the injectors with the haltech. I've now got plenty of headroom with the moran injectors and if some of the back to back dyno's i've seen are to be believed theres no better injectors for spray pattern than the morans(friend picked up 40hp on an 1100hp application). What say you?
    Thanks....glad it made sense to you. There are some discussions that in my opinion are too brand specific; wish we'd just stick to the science most of the time.Anyway....I'm likely to get into trouble for this....but I don't think any nitrous company has got the fuel side as efficient as a good fuel injector. That's not to say that there aren't some individuals that haven't figured out some tricks, because I know of a couple, but most of the kit stuff out there is kind of stuck with regard to droplet size.So yes, I think running a dry system, with the fuel handled by the ECU is the way to go. A second stage? I don't know....I'm really not a fan of using multiple stages having learned what I have. I know...most of the pro-mods run 4-5 stages....but it's not near as linear as some would have you believe. The way the term "Hit" is used should be the clue...especially if you are spending most of your time working on the first 330ft. (As I'm assuming you will be) A high frequency progressive system is I think the way to go....but that's another topic, and I think you'll be fine with 1 properly working stage to start with. Nitrous in my opinion is all about the control strategy, more than the hardware, and thats where I think a lot of people go wrong. (Big topic)On the nitrous distribution side, you will want to watch the EGTs after activation, as that type of plumbing changes the flow a bit for each cylinder. Lots of people plumb like this, and some of them are really really good nitrous tuners, but that word "tuner" means something. The flow needs to be matched across the cylinders...and I have yet to find an accurate method of measuring this. I mean...we can measure fuel flow across the cylinders by wet-flowing the manifold once assembled....but nitrous flow...that's a different animal. The best method I've found yet is high speed flash photography where you can compare the nitrous plumes as they exit the manifold on a test bench. I've found some whacky stuff doing this......and I'm hesitant to call it a method of testing...as it's really just observing...but it seemed to point me and a couple of others in the right direction. The trick with this method isn't so much getting a camera that will take 5+ frames per second, as much as having a flash system that will fire at a high ISO for more than 1 frame.Boy am I rambling on....So for the Haltech, I would want to add 2 fuel modifiers: Nitrous activation (Or duty cycle if you go with PWM control) and nitrous pressure. Being able to automatically have your fuelling adapt to nitrous pressure is worth more than most people know. I don't care how big your bottles are, you are going to see pressure drop down track. And mount the nitrous pressure sensor as close to the solenoid as you can. I don't want to get into it here, but nitrous at the bottle can be quite a bit different from at the manifold...especially if you are using a lot.
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  9. #184
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    @Sticky What the heck is going on with the post formatting? I have paragraphs..spaces ect when I type. Now...one big blob.
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  10. #185
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    coming together very nicely Click here to enlarge
    JB4LIFE

  11. #186
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    @Sticky What the heck is going on with the post formatting? I have paragraphs..spaces ect when I type. Now...one big blob.
    I'm not sure what happened there.

  12. #187
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I'm not sure what happened there.
    Obviously I'm obsessed with details...OP, if you run into limitations with your ECU choice, I have some options that I would recommend. Probably my number one recommendation is wait until the spring. Click here to enlarge
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  13. #188
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Obviously I'm obsessed with details...OP, if you run into limitations with your ECU choice, I have some options that I would recommend. Probably my number one recommendation is wait until the spring. Click here to enlarge
    I actually love the haltech and im about to double down on it because chase bays the company that did my wiring and has given me nothing but problems has struck again. They wired the dual wide band controllers through the ecu instead of just the signal wires and of course that pulls alot of power to heat the two O2's and it fried my ecu. so tomorrow i need to find another one asap.

  14. #189
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    this is beautiful

  15. #190
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Obviously I'm obsessed with details...OP, if you run into limitations with your ECU choice, I have some options that I would recommend. Probably my number one recommendation is wait until the spring. Click here to enlarge
    It may have been the device or browser you were posting from. Just in case, click preview post before you submit.

  16. #191
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    Few pics of paint done, looks better in the sun as above but been lousy weather here lately. You can see where we'll be testing it in some of the pics Click here to enlarge

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    Undercarriage painted black

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  17. #192
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    Awesome build. Enjoying the read thoroughly as well as the knowledge from member contributions.

  18. #193
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    Car looks great! Congrats.
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  19. #194
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    Car is looking awesome! Any ideas on rims yet?
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    Car is looking awesome! Any ideas on rims yet?
    Yeah I'm 90% certain I'm gonna go with this.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Billet+Special...26165/10002/-1

  21. #196
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    Looks great man.

  22. #197
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    Holy $#@!! This site is full of undiscovered treasure threads. This is my first time finding this thread and this was the best build I've seen. It was like never watching any 24 episodes until the 5th season and then watching the first 5 seasons in a week to catch up.

    Amazing build!
    2010 e92 M3 Jet Black | DCT | ESS Tuned | Akrapovic Slip-on | Challenge X-pipe | AFE Intake | 18" Volk TE37SL | KW V3 Coilovers | RPI Scoops | Under Drive Pulley

    2007 e92 Mont. Blue 335i | 6MT | COBB Tuned | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Helix FMIC | AA DPs | HKS Exhaust | DCI | Stett CP w/ Forged DVs | KWv2 Coilovers | UUC Sway Bars & SSK | HPF Stg 2 Clutch | HFS-4 | M3 Suspension Bits | DEFIVfab Diff Lockdown Kit | Stoptech Trophy BBK

  23. #198
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nafoo Click here to enlarge
    Holy $#@!! This site is full of undiscovered treasure threads.
    That it is...

  24. #199
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    Top notch build. Anything RB related is cat's ass, I tried to find a reasonable RB swapped 240 before purchasing my 1JZ swapped MK3.

    This car should roll hard after a year or two of shake down. What's it weigh? What's the cage certified to?

    Click here to enlarge

    I also spotted the Fox in the background of this photo. Yours?
    Rocky

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    MK3 Supra - 1jz swap, big single, supporting mods

  25. #200
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Notsafe335i Click here to enlarge
    Top notch build. Anything RB related is cat's ass, I tried to find a reasonable RB swapped 240 before purchasing my 1JZ swapped MK3.

    This car should roll hard after a year or two of shake down. What's it weigh? What's the cage certified to?

    Click here to enlarge

    I also spotted the Fox in the background of this photo. Yours?
    I think the cage is certified to 6.5 secs.

    It says it somewhere in the thread.
    2010 e92 M3 Jet Black | DCT | ESS Tuned | Akrapovic Slip-on | Challenge X-pipe | AFE Intake | 18" Volk TE37SL | KW V3 Coilovers | RPI Scoops | Under Drive Pulley

    2007 e92 Mont. Blue 335i | 6MT | COBB Tuned | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Helix FMIC | AA DPs | HKS Exhaust | DCI | Stett CP w/ Forged DVs | KWv2 Coilovers | UUC Sway Bars & SSK | HPF Stg 2 Clutch | HFS-4 | M3 Suspension Bits | DEFIVfab Diff Lockdown Kit | Stoptech Trophy BBK

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