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  1. #1
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    Help car will not start back up.

    So I replaced my transmission after my last auto blew. Put my top mount single on at the same time. Car started up great, but I didn't get a chance to drive it yet. So today I go outside to start it and it will not start. All I get is the fuel pump priming up. I replaced the battery and had the starter tested and still nothing. Also I can't even take the car out of park.

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    Does it crank? How easily/freely does it crank? Do you have any codes? Did you tripple-check your transmission wires are hooked-up?
    Change is constant

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    I am about to plug up the BT cable now. The transmission came from a 2008 I have a 2007 335, Would I need to code it? Motor turns over easy by hand. Is there a way to start it by touching the starter with a power source? I seen a couple people do this on older cars.

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    Yes, you can always hot-wire the starter, but it doesn't mean that it will start if the DME is unhappy. I don't have experience with autos to help much more.
    Change is constant

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    Well you said it started up fine, it was only after it sat for a while that it stopped working, correct?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Well you said it started up fine, it was only after it sat for a while that it stopped working, correct?
    Yes correct.

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    Would the car have to be recoded since the 2007 6AT has a different TCM then the 2008+ 6AT (one of the reason '07 6ATs cannot be coded with the Alpina software)?
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    Yeah It wont even let the BT cable connect to the transmission module. I guess because of the BT cable only being able to do 1 vin. I got the basic BT cable.

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    Yeah, but you're still only on your VIN, so that shouldn't be an issue. I'd say you definitely needed to re-code the transmission, since the electronics are different from 07. I'm honestly not familiar enough to know what to do at this point. What's the user's name that did the alpina flash DIY? I'm sure he could help.
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    Guys its definitely not the trans. It started with the new trans before. Nothing changed except time passed. Coding of ecu may be screwed. Wiring might have frayed. Water damage. Busted fuses. Etc.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Guys its definitely not the trans. It started with the new trans before. Nothing changed except time passed. Coding of ecu may be screwed. Wiring might have frayed. Water damage. Busted fuses. Etc.
    No water damage.

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    These are the fault and shadow fault codes I am getting from the BT cable.



    2FA3
    2E84
    2E7C
    2E8E



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    ????

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    Those first two codes are amongst ones I got on the E90 when the battery died a few months ago. I replaced the battery and IBS (it's a sensor) and all was well. Obviously, the car wouldn't start with the battery totally dead.

    When you replaced the battery i'm assuming you registered it, but did you check the IBS wiring?
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    I replaced the battery the same day I started the car up. I didn't get a chance to register it yet. Where is the IBS wiring? On the battery connections?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Linracing Click here to enlarge
    I replaced the battery the same day I started the car up. I didn't get a chance to register it yet. Where is the IBS wiring? On the battery connections?
    It's on the negative cable/ground wire.

    Edit: And if it goes bad, your car will not start. That's exactly what happened to the E90. I've never seen anything like it with the E88, it happened out of nowhere.
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    How could I check if its bad? That is what I disconnected as well after I started the car I disconnected the battery for a while and plugged the negative back in and got this problem.

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    When you get a new battery car has to be coded.. Could be ONE of the problems, it doesn't even crank...

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    Battery was just replaced didn't even have time to code it. About to just give up on this car been to much of a pain.

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    It definitely sounds like a Transmission/module issue. Seems that the car doesn't know that it is in park or neutral so it won't allow the car to start. It probably doesn't want to shift out of physical park for the same reason. Another thing would be the brake switch not working or hooked up.

    Good Luck.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lfelunden Click here to enlarge
    When you get a new battery car has to be coded.. Could be ONE of the problems, it doesn't even crank...
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Linracing Click here to enlarge
    Battery was just replaced didn't even have time to code it. About to just give up on this car been to much of a pain.
    Don't give up! I bet it's something really simple like the battery coding. I remember reading a few months back of a bunch of issues someone else had when they replaced their battery. I really don't understand why BMW made it so complicated...I mean...it's a $#@!ing battery...why make it almost necessary to go to the dealership and pay $500? This isn't Porsche...
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    Battery coding isn't really coding guys. It's just resetting what the car has learned about the battery health and charging/life expectancy. It's not 100% necessary to do, although for the health of your new battery it's certainly recommended. I'm not sure about INPA but you can reset this easily with the Bavarian Technic tool, and have a useful diagnostic tool likely for less than the dealership charges to perform the service (or close).

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Linracing Click here to enlarge
    Battery was just replaced didn't even have time to code it. About to just give up on this car been to much of a pain.
    No way. Just drop it off at the dealer to diagnose. It'll take them a couple hours and you'll know what small thing is wrong.
    Change is constant

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    And?

    The dealer diagnosis if you run out of ideas is not a bad solution.

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