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  1. #1
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    If you are ugrading your turbos - READ this thread.

    Ok, so with the issues a recent OP had after installing turbos, and not replacing some parts we like to see replaced, we decided to make a post detailing what we think could have been done to avoid them. Here is a quick run down of what we feel NEEDS to be replaced when upgrading your turbochargers.


    • Clutch ( Sped 2+ or 3+ are popular upgrades and seem to work well)
    • Upgraded PCV valve ( we have these in stock, also consider valve cover gasket and PCV hose)
    • Oil Catch can (BMS is suggested due to its short line routing)
    • All Vacuum lines from pump to canisters, canisters to solenoids, solenoids to actuators
    • All worm clamps on charge piping to T-Bolt clamps
    • If not already done, upgraded intercooler, and non 3" catted DP’s
    • Replace plugs with NGK5992’s gapped to 0.56mm or 0.022”
    • Replace your intank pump wth a walbro 455 or run a walbro inline
    • Replace any suspect coils or injectors
    • Run only 91+ fuels and higher


    That should get your in a good place to reliably make good horsepower with no issues. If anyone can think of something I missed feel free to add it.
    Last edited by Tony@VargasTurboTech; 12-09-2013 at 01:35 PM.

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    5 out of 11 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    This post by LostMarine is hidden due to excessive negative ratings. Click expand to view the post.



  3. #3
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    All that is needed for a turbo swap...? Odd, I didnt do anything besides basic FBO's..
    Good for you?

    It's just good advice in general, especially for cars with many miles on them.
    335xi (sold)
    www.datazap.me - fast, free, interactive datalogs

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    Sigh looks like I have to start banning people already. No idea what he said as he is blocked but I am assuming its some bs about why would people need to do all this. You don't need to per se. But if you want to keep from chasing down problems, this is a good list of things every person should consider doing. If you don't and your car has high milage, expect issues. Pretty simple.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    All that is needed for a turbo swap...? Odd, I didnt do anything besides basic FBO's..
    it's just good maintenance to do some of those things. Obviously if you want the turbos to run at optimal performance, you want everything that is related to those turbos being at their optimal too. So new vacuum lines and better clamps around the air flow track will only aid in hopefully deterring any boost leaks.

    the pumps are going to be ideal for certain contents of corn and to maximize power figures with back end flashes.

    not 100% sure on the n54, but i know many cars it's recommended to go with different plugs and better coils when you're damn near doubling power output from stock.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jpsimon Click here to enlarge
    Good for you?

    It's just good advice in general, especially for cars with many miles on them.
    Act is getting a bit tired isn't it?

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    Lol..

    good advice.
    I reccomend meth(not needed)
    think about brakes
    think about tires
    consider motor mounts
    255 inline is the easiest/most reliable (I've tried all)
    oil. Don't be shy. Rotella t6 5-40. I change every 2k miles
    keep a couple coil packs on hand(they are cheap)
    have an extra set of plugs. I change every 3-5k
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
    - N54 6AT WR 711whp 637wtq-
    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Act is getting a bit tired isn't it?
    Amen! Tried to rep you but looks like I need to spread the love.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Ok, so with the issues a recent OP had after installing turbos, and not replacing some parts we like to see replaced, we decided to make a post detailing what we think could have been done to avoid them. Here is a quick run down of what we feel NEEDS to be replaced when upgrading your turbochargers.


    • Clutch ( Sped 2+ or 3+ are popular upgrades and seem to work well)
    • Upgraded PCV valve ( we have these in stock, also consider valve cover gasket and PCV hose)
    • All Vacuum lines from pump to canisters, canisters to solenoids, solenoids to actuators
    • All worm clamps on charge piping to T-Bolt clamps
    • If not already done, upgraded intercooler, and non 3" catted DP’s
    • Replace plugs with NGK5992’s gapped to 0.56mm or 0.022”
    • Replace your intank pump wth a walbro 455 or run a walbro inline
    • Replace any suspect coils or injectors
    • Run only 91+ fuels and higher


    That should get your in a good place to reliably make good horsepower with no issues. If anyone can think of something I missed feel free to add it.
    can i use OCC instead the 2nd point?

  10. #10
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    Lol..

    good advice.
    I reccomend meth(not needed)
    think about brakes
    think about tires
    consider motor mounts
    255 inline is the easiest/most reliable (I've tried all)
    oil. Don't be shy. Rotella t6 5-40. I change every 2k miles
    keep a couple coil packs on hand(they are cheap)
    have an extra set of plugs. I change every 3-5k
    Do you change plugs so often because of misfires or just preventative maintenance because you know one will go bad before 7-10k?

    Most things posted in this thread are good ideas but certainly not needed.
    E92 Bren Tune / E90 PTF Tune / E70 Twin Turbo Diesel JBD

    Got Boost?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135idct Click here to enlarge
    can i use OCC instead the 2nd point?
    I actually had an OCC in my first list and forgot to put it in there. It is updated now, you need to run the upgraded PCV valve in addition to a OCC. The BMS OCC seems to be the OCC choice due to its short line routing, we have had no problems with it.

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    Do you change plugs so often because of misfires or just preventative maintenance because you know one will go bad before 7-10k?

    Most things posted in this thread are good ideas but certainly not needed.

    Yeah ah I just posted things to consider to minimize any headaches or downtime.
    My plugs have always been good when I check and no misfires.
    But at 60-70 bucks for plugs if I pull to check I may as well throw new ones in Click here to enlarge
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
    - N54 6AT WR 711whp 637wtq-
    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    Lol..

    good advice.
    I reccomend meth(not needed)
    think about brakes
    think about tires
    consider motor mounts
    255 inline is the easiest/most reliable (I've tried all)
    oil. Don't be shy. Rotella t6 5-40. I change every 2k miles
    keep a couple coil packs on hand(they are cheap)
    have an extra set of plugs. I change every 3-5k
    it depends how big is the turbo Click here to enlarge

  14. #14
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    This is more on the margins, but how about going up to a 40W oil? OE 30W isn't bad oil but i'm concerned it would run into shearing issues at the type of heat it's being subjected to on STG2 cars.

    Everything else on this list seems pretty smart and reasonable to me.
    E88 N54 w stuff
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
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  15. #15
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    @135pats pls
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
    - N54 6AT WR 711whp 637wtq-
    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    @135pats pls
    No? Explain my incorrectness Click here to enlarge
    E88 N54 w stuff
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
    Click here to enlarge

  17. #17
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    Good thread it's just sad sometimes you have to state this. These are literally the BASICS, everyone should know this at LEAST if you're going with this much power.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    No? Explain my incorrectness Click here to enlarge

    Not no. But yes!!! U right. I recommends rotella t6 5-40 a couple post b4 Click here to enlarge
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
    - N54 6AT WR 711whp 637wtq-
    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

  19. #19
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    This is the oil I recommend for these cars, and its what we put in all our in shop installations.

    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2fafl.aspx

    Click here to enlarge

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    Not no. But yes!!! U right. I recommends rotella t6 5-40 a couple post b4 Click here to enlarge
    Mmm gotcha. I was preparing for a “gooby pls” moment there Click here to enlarge

    OK done thread jacking, good idea posting this all up Tony. Though as noted previously, if people don’t know to do these items as part of broader upkeep…IDK if they should be pushing 500 to the wheels.
    E88 N54 w stuff
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
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  21. #21
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    Mmm gotcha. I was preparing for a “gooby pls” moment there Click here to enlarge

    OK done thread jacking, good idea posting this all up Tony. Though as noted previously, if people don’t know to do these items as part of broader upkeep…IDK if they should be pushing 500 to the wheels.
    Well I mean what does it say about a supposed car junkie and N54 expert who came in here and said its not needed. Just goes to show that some people just want to be confrontational. These are all things we feel should be changed, if you have done so in the recent past, etc etc. Then pick and choose from the list, but these things will help stop tuning headaches, and downtime from happening.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Well I mean what does it say about a supposed car junkie and N54 expert who came in here and said its not needed. Just goes to show that some people just want to be confrontational. These are all things we feel should be changed, if you have done so in the recent past, etc etc. Then pick and choose from the list, but these things will help stop tuning headaches, and downtime from happening.
    Does lostmarine even wrench on his own car? He seems like more of a "pay to play" kind of guy to me Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    This is the oil I recommend for these cars, and its what we put in all our in shop installations.

    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2fafl.aspx

    Click here to enlarge
    They have a full SAPS oil too:

    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=EFMQT-EA

    The full SAPS is supposed to be the replacement for an LL-01 oil. I think it has to due with the sulfur in the fuel in the US. LL-04 (mid SAPS) oils are not recommended stateside for what I've read.
    Eppur si muove.

  24. #24
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    They have a full SAPS oil too:

    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=EFMQT-EA

    The full SAPS is supposed to be the replacement for an LL-01 oil. I think it has to due with the sulfur in the fuel in the US. LL-04 (mid SAPS) oils are not recommended stateside for what I've read.
    You are correct. Whoops, I posted the wrong one. Just saw 5-40 and grabbed it, we do use the Full Saps euro spec.

    This is the link: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=EFMQT-EA

    Click here to enlarge

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    5w40, $#@! I used 5w30 valvoline syntec. It was the one under the BMW spec sheet for oil on the n54.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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